1. This is the second and best version of the early Minolta 16 models. The models which followed through the 1950s and into the 60s had meters and auto-expose. Almost all do not focus, relying on depth of field at the lens' short focal length and smaller apertures to compensate. The last model focuses, but has only two shutter speeds. Got figure!
  2. The biggest deterrent to sharpness, after the small format size, is holding the camera still for exposure. No one uses these cameras on a tripod (except in the video), so a user really has to train for this, using external supports as found.
.  3. Use the finest grain film. In B&W, the super fine Adox film with its custom dedicated developer., or Ilford Pan F in diluted Xtol, for example. Use developers which favor sharpness over fine grain, but not something gross, like Rodinal. Skip solvent developers, like  D-76. (This is a subject well beyond discussion here.) Use bottled, distilled water to mix all developing solutions. Use filtered wash water if possible. Never touch the film emulsion, wet or dry. Hang film to dry in a closed, dust free space. Hours of after-processing spotting, digital or otherwise, can be mostly avoided.
 4.  Current color negative films do not feature the sharpness required to give the image quality available in B&W, and the C-41 development process is "same for all", so satisfaction may be less, particularly if you do not do it yourself.
 5. Finding reloadable film cartridges is a big issue here. The Minolta originals are ever fewer and usually hugely over-priced. The after market eBay products vary from adequate to unusable trash. Check the buyer feedback, I guess.
 6. A 100-foot roll of movie film is an easy source, but a very limited selection. The various razor blade blocks to cut down 35mm or 120 roll film are usually reliable but a $35 -$50 one time purchase.
 7. The images seen in the video are about as good as it gets, and that is with a lot of personal effort, so test the water before plunging in.

So fun to see this in action again. I bought a Minolta 16 II in the early 70s when I was about 10, and used it until it was stolen from a rental house during college. I never got any photos nearly as good as yours, but I had a lot of fun thinking I was in the cast of Mission: Impossible.

Fun episode!  This brought back a lot of memories.  I bought a Minolta 16 MG in 1969-- a little more modern than the 16 II as it has a meter and a more modern interface.  I got it when I graduated Claremont High School (about a mile from the train station you shot) and took it on a long trip to the Soviet Union.   I used 16 mm Ektachrome slide film and still have some of the slides.

Outstanding job, what a fun camera. Stretching ones film budget makes more and more sense these days, forget half frame, get one of these! 🎉

good to see you guys again! this is by far my favourite photography channel :)

This is not a format I am ever likely to use, but I have to say I really enjoyed watching you two having a great time with it.

Subscribed! Minolta 16II (with the correction lens) is my favorite camera as a photography newbie. It's really hard to beat the combination of 16mm bulk movie film and caffenol development

I’ve got a few of these Minolta 16 cameras and have recently bought 3D printed film cartridges for them that work great. Non perforated film works best, but as you mentioned, any standard 16mm will work great. They are just the coolest little things. Different than Minox, but not by much.

This was a great episode gentleman! I have one question, if I may? Before shooting the Test Roll Martin used the phrase, "I'm down for it". Is there a hidden meaning in this statement?

Were all the photos edited in photoshop like the first one? And how could I prevent the dust problems?

If  you want no grain try 16mm microfilm at ASA25 and develop in Rodinal at 1 to 300 semi-stand for 60 minutes with one inversion at 20 and 40 minutes.  I have a lot of 16mm photos on flicker user high2hal .