I'm using code 100 and insufrogs, and am quite happy with that, as I have every track section on droppers anyway! Although the unifrogs would make most of the wires redundant, it would cost me about 3K to replace all the track and points! Then I'd have to re-wheel about half of my rolling stock! - - Outlay vs practicality - as there's only me seeing it anyway!

I have recently started using Kato purely because the points come with motors saving the nightmare. Yes it's not everyone's cup of tea because of the plastic ballasting or price but it works a treat

I've used peco electrofrog points on my past 3 layouts, with mods and with various point motors, had no issues at all. I prefer electrofrog points because 4 wheel locos or poor pickup locos don't stall. It's not difficult to do the mods.

I haven't made any amendments to my electrofrog points, just wired the frog to a switch to change the polarity as required.  They work a treat.  However, having looked closely at the Unifrogs the Peco are now producing, any future layout I build will definitely use them in preference, not only because they are easy to use, but they look a lot better too.

My DCC layout works fine on Peco insulfrog points. I only solder droppers on the plain line track sections. All I do is put insulated fish plates off the 2 rails coming g off the frog. The other 4 rails are just metal joiners as normal. It's quite simple no additional switches required.

Track is a model in itself! You are right on the money with that and the Peco Unifrog turnout looks so real for the modeling of track! I use Peco codes 70 and 83 North American track. It's very realistic looking! Greetings from Canada, Eh!

Excellent video and I am so happy to discover this! Looking around, I see these are bullhead finescale track which is exactly what I will need for my preservation layout I have in mind and what a god send in saving on the wiring!!

I use electrofrogs and have not made any modifications at all except putting on the insulated joiners which is not difficult and had no problems whatsoever, occasionally I might have to give the point blades a little clean but I rarely even have to do that.

Good point, well made. Thanks Craig and happy birthday to you

I agree that the track, the treatment of the track, and the final look of the track is the most important thing and has to look as real as possible before you move on to the rest. This is why I don't have the three rail stuff I grew up with because there is nothing you can do to make that stuff look real. I use Code 100 track by Atlas here in the states and actually based in my state of New Jersey but I did enjoy your video. Jersey Bill

Started using Walthers and Pecos own unifrog systems and never looked back lol.

I’m 100% with you on the track. Despite it being narrow gauge, I also use Peco’s fantastic Code 75 Bullhead track on my 1980’s TMD based layout. It just looks so much better!

I use peco electrofrog simply because i built my layout just before unifrog came out.  Also, even tho bullhead track looks really really good, i live in the USA, i do run trains from all over the world, but mostly american, and the elctrofrog track and points are in regular flatbottom rail which looks more the part for me

Peco do  curved points and wyes in code 100. I've used the curved point as I have tight radius curves in. Small space. They work great . The rest of the track is a mixture of old Hornby and peco set track and streamline . Real dogs dinner but it works. Like other contributors I have added droppers to virtually every section. No issues with most of my 040 shunters but stay alives have also saved a lot of hassle too.

hi this video came  to light today even tho only just sudcribed to your channel  the video is year old   points that i use are insul frog points  i wire them up that makes point blade  live does not matter which way point is set  so no point blade  contact is needed  train will run ok and  tip for you and anyone that reads this if a point  blade  is in use for electric contact use a pencil  rub in gap of the blade where it touches running rail of the point the graphite of pencil conducts electricty    cheers alan

My DCC layout is fully Electrofrog but code 100 rail. If I rebuild I would probably go code 75 as code 100 doesn't have Electro or even Unifrog diamonds which is a bit annoying. I have 2 in my layout and use metal tape on one and the other I went full hog and replaced the frog rails, easier said than done hence only one done like that, but check rails are still plastic.

I hear ya. I run DC and my electrofrog Peco N turnouts are a nightmare. Insulfrogs just work.

I met you today at Settle thanks for the advice and the items I purchased from you. Great video from Mark

Great Video , I have droppers on all sections anyway for reliability, you need a fish plate to come a bit loose and as we all know they do and your screwed .

Just started with Unifrog in O gauge, and so far I love it. Flawless, Thanks for the review. I will continue to use them myself!