enjoyed this, thanks, subscribed, cheers from UK

I like full flats, sabers, scandis, as well as convex. Everything is give and take; and they all excel in different aspects. I guess you could say I just like all the knives 😅 If I could pick only one, it would be my 3V Reiff F4, which has a convex edge, but is a high saber with a slight hollow blade grind. And yes, micarta 💯

Great reviews and analysis - thanks for taking the time to share your experience and insights. I subscribed. 😎👍

I bought my bravo 1 lt  3v ironwood burl handle 13 years ago. It's ashame bark river closed shop they made some good looking knives.

I own the buckeye... my absolute favorite!

This last week had an opportunity to sit and whittle with about 10 different William Collins knives. Most were "AEBL". I WAs really impressed. Prior, I would have never picked one off internet pictures.. but wow! The Fieldlore and Blackbird, even the mini fieldlore were incredible... and Im not a high speed knife guy..

I like scandi grind it's very tough but my favorite is Sabre grind. For outdoors hollow grind for self defense. It's so slicey

I'm a fan ogf LT Wright and Battle Horse as well. I have 3 of the BHK and 6 of the LTW. They make quality knives that you can hand down to your children. I have more Bark Rivers than any other brand, but like you, haven't bought one in a few years now. My favorite Bark River is their Puukko. Such a good knife. My BHK favorite is the Woodlore, and my LT favorite is a tough one. Kind of a toss up between the Outback and GNS. I do have other brands, but those 3 are the ones I grab the most when headed out to the woods.

Not familiar with Bark River but LT and BHK are some fine blades! I carry the Highlander (saber grind) for general use and the Woodsman (scandi grind) for finer task.
As always, another good video

My favourite steel is 4110 it doesn’t get enough love

Hi, very good outline. I am based in the UK. We have some laws about knife carry. I have been lucky to have spent a lot of my life living on a farm, or linked to one. I have four knives as well as a swiss Army knife.  Plus  Victorinox multi tool.

Just found you on you tube great vidsi I am fan of lt and battle horse have some and hadsome. Look at battle horse knives banshee and  renegade they are a dlt exclusive bestknives I ever got from battle horse. Also  I'm kinda a fan boy of reiff or is it rieff have for of them love them. Ti have many others but feel we are on same page when it comes to knives. Be safe and keep up the good vids

Ive seen my LT Wright knives get through everything Ive ever put them through, Id have a hard time choosing anything else. I have a Sisu that has been a little tank aswell. My Nex Gen and Pronghorns are my go-to's that I'll never get rid of. And I 100% agree about the micarta and high carbon steels. I have tried every super steel, most of my folders have them. For a "survival" situation fixed blade I absolutely agree high carbons are superior. I prefer 3v or A2. Tough, good edge retention, incredibly easy to keep it sharp with a strop and sharpen it

D2 steel is very tuff keeps a good edge & doesn't rust easy. Commercial wood chipping machines are made with D2 steel on purpose. The original M2 KA-BAR with 1095 steel did very well for me in Vietnam & South American jungle. My Randall #1 with O1 tool steel made by Bo Randall was so good it got stolen so I had to get another from Cumberland Knife & Gun , Bragg Blvd. Fayettnam...

I love you BHK and LT collection! Whats your belt EDC if you arent carrying a pocket knife?

I agree with you that the traditional carbon steel blades are generally ‘good’ in outdoor use for camping, survival and bushcrafting purposes, HOWEVER, I wish that many of these USA Made Fixed Blade manufacturers would use 3V steel more often!

Although it’s not stainless, 3V has much better corrosion resistance and edge retention, while being fully 2x tougher than O1 or 1095 Carbon Steel. Yes, 5160 Carbon Steel is extremely tough, but the edge retention and corrosion resistance are both very low. It is also much harder to find knives 5160 steel compared to 1095.

Even if the 3V Steel blades are more expensive, at least give us the option! For example, TOPS Knives has some great designs that I love, but they operate as though 1095 is the only steel available in the market!

I just got a Lionsteel T6 (fixed) blade in 3V steel that I really love! [I almost always buy Made in the USA, but I have a serious obsession with Lionsteel Knives from Italy- excellent fixed blades and sheaths and a great value for the cost).

Super hot 10 months of the year sounds rough I have to have these New England four seasons . I have carried the bush craft black for the last 13 years or so best handle in the biz that rubber or whatever it is . Thanks for the video

My kit is Terava Jaakaripuukko 110 + Terava Jaakaripuukko 85 Bare Tang + Terava Skrama 240 for jeep/vehicle.
PS Don't forget the sharpening stone.

The two knives I use the most are a LT Wright GNS with a scandi grind and a full convex Puukko by Dulo knives. I find a scandi very useful if you’re working with hard seasoned wood and need the bite but prefer the convex when working with softer wood. In both cases, the key is a thin blade. The scandi is the best carver and is king with an axe, but if I want to have fun and batonned more than kindling I feel more comfortable with a convex blade. I think all commentators are not referring enough to the wood used when comparing grinds.

I have both high carbon steel and super steel and love the rust resistance of the super steel and I have a pocket diamond rod for maintaining the blade in the field and it’s not a problem. On the other hand, I have a big chopper and a mini tracker  in O1 from Origin knives UK and they have fantastic edge retention. What I’m saying is that heat treatment and geometry are way more important than the steel in itself. My worst knife to sharpen is in 1095, I am not able to get a sharp edge on this knife and I think it’s because of the ht. Finally, I would add that, to a certain extent, a great heat treatment combined with a nice finish can improve rust resistance of some steels.

I dont bother with a belt knife, cause it cant do enough. I use the visegrip of a leatherman crunch tool to hold one of the 3 different types of saw blades that i carry. I tossed the phillips, file and knife blade of the crunch and replaced them with real 2 real deal file blades, triangular and flat, and a normal carbon steel knife blade. I also carry just the blade of a Cold Steel shovel. without the handle, the shovel is a trowel, "big knife", SKILLET and prybad,  In an hour or less, I can make whatever handle I need and REALLY get some work done. I beefed up the bolts that hold the handle in the shovel, and altered both it and the Crunch to be taken apart and reassembled without tools.