Jack, next time you polish headlights, I recommend putting masking tape on the paint around the lights first, as it's easy to accidentally polish through the paint on the edges of the panels.  it lets you see if you're going past the edge of the light too often, and gives the paint a touch of protection before it starts to burn off.

The reason Jag would have quoted £2600 for the subframe will be mainly labour. In this situation you really need to take the subframe out of the car, remove all rust down to bare metal and then paint/waxoyl it while its out of the car. What you've done is basically put a rust proof layer on top of rust. This will stop new moisture getting into the subframes metal, but it won't stop the rust you left from spreading underneath the coating. So it will look all nice and new, but the metal will continue to deteriorate.

You attempted fixing things, whilst the dealer quoted you to replace faulty items, that's what main dealers do. they quoted mainly replacement not repair or refurbish.

Personally I'd have put a neutraliser on the rusty sub-frame to prevent corrosion coming back under the waxoil.  I also always put copper ease on wheel bolts and the hub facing surfaces; does make life easier thereafter.  Looks like it's turning into a really usable and still gorgeous car.

If you have to attack the lights again, please use tape around the surrounding bodywork.

The headlights will need a coat of UV resistant lacquer to last, else you'll need to polish them again in 12-18 months as they will go cloudy again. No biggie, but worth getting them coated in my personal opinion.

"They wanted £2600 for sorting out the subframe so I saved £2600 by not sorting out the subframe." Thanks Jack, nice one 😂

That " bolt" you were holding in your hand is actually a nut,the bit you sheared on the car is called a stud.

It's great to see you back on the spanners, Jack! As much as I love your reviews, this content is what it's all about 👍

Wire wheel on a rotary should knock down all the flaky rust. Quicker and cleaner too!

I would've personally put some rust converter on the subframe as all you've done with the wax oil is lock in the rust which will make it worse long term. I see it all the time. You need to get rid of the rust first.

I also had a wheel nut break on me, 2015 jag XE, I saw a youtuber use a hole saw fractionally larger than the stud to cut through the remains of the nut and it worked for me. Nut excess came away, wheel slid over what remains on the stud, using mole grips to unwind the remainder off the stud. 10 minute job.

Love this channel but surely it's a wheel nut that broke, the 'bolt' is the threaded bit that comes out from the hub to put the nuts onto........

Jack, it was a good 'temporary' fix on the rear subframe - but on my 1996 XK8 (which rot a lot more than the X150's) I removed my rear subframe and for a piece of steel that had lived under the car for over a quarter of a century it was surprisingly good. However I removed the orignal paint and rust spots, wire wheeled, applied a chemical rust proofer and primer and then two coats of POR15. I also did this to the support brackets and struts. Hopefully it should last another couple decades!

Glad to see your cat licks water off the cars as well, mine refuses to drink from a bowl, but a car or puddle shes there.

Great result and just shows how much you can save on dealer quotes. However, I think the subframe refurb is a bit misleading, as you've only really (so it would seem) got the crap off and sealed the bits you can physically get to. You would really need to drop it and take off all the ancillary bits to do it properly. Just sayin'.

Main dealers don't want to fix cars out of warranty, they just want to sell you a new one! Hence the walk past the latest models to the service centres. Great advice for you with the comments you have received.

Eye watering costs for Jaguar's, but you are doing a good work fixing them yourself. Good stuff. All the best Bob

22 mm hole saw will take enough off the broken wheel nut for the wheel to slip off. Just take your time and plenty of lubricant.You can then remove the broken nut with a pair of mole grips. I had to do 3 on my XF a couple of years ago. I used a Starret hole saw. If the cap comes off you need an 18mm socket. It’s now possible to buy nuts that are machined from solid.

I’m glad you got the wheel sorted, but this happened to me. Easy fix is to buy a 20mm hole cutter and put it on your drill, it fits over the sheared nut and when you drill it out to the spinning  ring collar so won’t damage your wheel. It takes 30 seconds to drill off. Very easy fix. 👍🏻