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Why Backlit Acrylic Signs Look So Good (And How to Make Them)

Bitner Built

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I can finally cut and engrave on clear acrylic with my new P2 C02 Laser Engraver so lets review what elements go into building a backlit acrylic sign and then make a new sign for the shop!

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20 Comments

@alanworks4354 2 years ago

I use the LED in a zigzag pattern directly behind the acrylic, and use baking parchment paper as a diffuser. You only need 1/4 to 1/2” of space to break up the individual diodes, and it handles high heat

@MCsCreations 2 years ago

Thanks for all the info, Justin! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

@thomhill2054 3 weeks ago

Nice job

@jimrosson6702 2 years ago

Very cool Justin the sign turned out great.

@MohsinRaza-ii6fm 12 days ago

It's 2 years old video, you are already a master now but i am writing for the ones reading comments, you can always use a diffuser paper behind acrylic, the same diffuser paper which is used in led or lcd screens. You can get free also.

@dian3145 2 years ago

Well thought out presentation with a boat load of detail. It’s clear that you researched and tested it before putting it all together. 👍👍

@MuddyPlayTime 3 months ago

Great information on acrylics. Thanks!

@WasatchBarnWoodworking 2 years ago

Very informative. Just like you I got my P2 a few weeks ago and even though I have a strong understanding of CNC I'm finding that there is a whole new learning curve with Lasers. :). This week was learning acrylic also. Thanks for posting your work !
Scott

@GroundedConceptsLLC 2 years ago

The science of crafting. Love your channel brother

@michaelmilton4427 4 months ago

Great video. Thank you

@drurigney8616 1 year ago

WOS! All the Youtube Videos Ive watched, finally someone who explained "Kurf" and I actually get it now. I really like the way you use a flash light as a visual tool.

@lumatrace 2 years ago

This is awesome! I purchased a P2 specifically for this reason after I dove into 3D printing and realized how hard it is to get clean lines to shine light through. Hoping Acrylic solves this issue. Definitely subscribing. Make more of this:)

@nathanwolf5547 2 years ago

I’d love to see some acrylic ideas for the F1 and F1 Ultra

@AnonYmous-ur8nn 5 months ago

Watching this two years after it was recorded. Two observations. Set larger pieces to be cut on acrylic in a different color with smaller pieces (prone to falling through) in a different color. Run larger cut first. Then smaller pieces. Basically sequencing. Second. If your laser beam is correctly adjusted then it will not cut at an angle. It’ll be straight cut.

@bascodelagamma 2 years ago

👍👍

@MyLifeAsMitch 10 months ago (edited)

Nice job. When you added the offset in Illustrator, you were working in "points" and in XCS you're working in mm, they are not the same. 1pt = approximately 0.35mm. That's probably why some of the pieces were still falling out.

@tommybruhn2922 1 year ago

paint the inside of the box white. this defused the light more and lite up the acrylic brighter

@thesplinteredfinger 2 years ago

Have you ever tried sanding the perimeter of the acrylic, except for the bottom. It encases the light within the piece. I do that on Al my bottom light signs.

@bsimmons00 2 years ago

Beware of heat creep with LED strips with dense diodes

@KBCallahan 1 year ago (edited)

love your videos! I learned so many little details that I never would have thought of from this one. Thank you :) I'm on the search yet again. I had purchased a WeCreat Vista, but haven't opened it yet and decided to return it. Thought I could cut colored acrylic with it, but just found a video that shows you can't cut blue acrylic, which is my main color... so.... any suggestions on beginner Co2?