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FOOTWORK to Improve YOUR Climbing

Hannah Morris Bouldering

186,074 views

Good footwork is one of the most important elements of climbing technique at every level. I recently met with Stian and Martin, two incredibly knowledgable climbing coaches from Norway, and co-authors of the Climbing Bible, to bring you a series of climbing coaching masterclasses on footwork, climbing technique and campus training. If bad footwork is holding you back on the wall, try out these tips to improve your climbing.

☞ The Climbing Bible: http://bit.ly/3YVQAaM
☞ The Climbing Bible Practical Exercises: http://bit.ly/3I05Sp4

☞Check out Stian https://www.instagram.com/stianchrist...
☞Check out Martin https://www.instagram.com/martinmobra...
☞Check out Vertebrate https://www.instagram.com/vertebrate_...

00:00 The importance of good footwork
00:14 Meet the climbing coaches: Stian and Martin
01:56 Footwork 101
02:21 Foot placements for climbing: inside egde, outside edge, toe and smear
07:14 Swapping feet: roll on roll off method, jumping foot swap
10:25 Placing your feet to step high
13:07 When should I train footwork for climbing?
15:46 Footwork on volumes and flat holds
18:17 Foot placement and balance on slabs
20:24 How to avoid the barn door

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20 Comments

@BradenAlbrecht 3 years ago

20:15 "One COULD relax" lol

@Gadgetmawombo 3 years ago (edited)

Dudes asking the QUESTIONS. That question about doing the climb with no foot swaps and then seeing it in action sort of blew my mind.

@Dave1507 3 years ago

That's funny, I just watched Magnus and Eddie Hall in that gym on that blue with the volumes, so I was like "hey, I've seen that gym before!"
Anyway, look at you, working with these guys! Thank you for taking us with you so we can profit from your in-person-training as well!

@danicoman961 3 years ago

Slabs are so much fun, even if my skinless shins and knees disagree. Thank you for that mini coaching session!
Also, that "weighted foot never pops" fall looked hella scary.

@toddgreen6862 3 years ago

These were the guys who came up with the 9c climbing test that Magnus (and a bunch of others) popularized a few years ago. And I feel your pain Hannah when you've just fallen off and your coach surprises you with a question along the lines of "What can you do differently?" I swear nothing will make your mind go blank more than a pop quiz after you've just been on a boulder. (Though I'm not sure if it's even worse when you flash the boulder and they say, "Nice, but what can you change to do it even better?")

@johnyokoyama123 3 years ago

This channel is like my own personal climbing coaching haha. Thanks so much for sharing all of this knowledge with us!!

@AllegraClimbingPsychologist 3 years ago

Could you do a video on footwork but on overhangs/cave/roof? 🙏

@Azylys- 3 years ago

Dropping the heels is a game changer ! I've been recording myself climbing to see what works when it works and what doesn't, and I've been able to note which footwork or body positioning makes the difference. Helped me reflect on my climbing a lot !!

@ubernoodel 3 years ago

Well, just in time for my climbing session.

@sjefsjegeren123 3 years ago

Huge credits to Hannah for making this happen. This is really powerful learning for everyone. Thank you!

@Ephmral 3 years ago

And incremental improvements and overcoming fear/challenges is cool too

@Matija-v9n 9 months ago

He's a great teacher

@gripandgrowclimbing 3 years ago (edited)

Absolutely appreciate this "basics" for footwork and how to think things through just as much as handholds. Thanks for sharing the knowledge and wisdom.

Foot trusting is key, but I acknowledge it's difficult at first.

@glintineye 3 years ago

Hello, Hannah (and comment viewers). One note, one request, and one question:
Note: I've found that in addition to the non-vertical axis Stian referenced, pushing hard onto the foot into a layback can typically stall a barn door. Not sure if anyone else has experienced this.
Request: I was hoping to find a tip about footwork in overhangs, essentially in the "how to place/use it" and "when to move feet" similar to this format. Is that in another video?
Question: How do you balance max rubber on the volume, applying normal force through the volume (thanks, Louis of Catalyst), and ankle mobility (might be gating to dropping the heel)?

@hellsjester31 3 years ago

These workshop kind of videos are really useful. I have the feeling that I'm roughly around your level (different style though as I'm 6"2 and I move differently on a wall as a result) and recently I started really getting into getting my technique better compared to just getting stronger. And these videos have already helped me improve. So thanks!

@Lazy_Eight 3 years ago

Another great video, it reminds me that I should train on trusting to put my heel down on slopers.

@rhettetherington1351 3 years ago

That's really helpful. I always forget to plan my feet and how to position them. Thanks, Hannah and Stian.

@mdasikkhan1610 2 years ago

eye opener

@mystishio 3 years ago

Some good tips for improving footwork here! At the very least for a newbie like me! 😀
Stian seems very knowledgeable, as well calm. Lovely as a coach 🙂

@flip_lange 3 years ago

Great video! Sometimes it’s the simplest changes that can make a big difference. I feel like this video works for beginners and more experienced climbers as well.