The Dealer Quoted $1,100 to Fix My $500 WRX... I Did It Myself!
Macho Motors
57,456 views
In this video, we continue bringing this $500 Subaru WRX back to life! After getting it running again, we find out it needs a full 200,000-mile tune-up along with a bunch of other annoying issues. Instead of paying the dealership to handle it, we tackle all the repairs ourselves and see how much we can save.
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Check out the Foxwell BT705 Car Battery Tester here:
https://amzn.to/4hhI1Dh
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š© Everything in My Garage ā https://amzn.to/3Xz3mh4
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20 Comments
@vtecdpn100 3 days ago (edited)
I love how you donāt cover up your mistakes and bloop them in randomly. And the things you say makes me laugh. Good channel Im subscribing!
@LS-uv9gg 3 days ago
Re: the "$100.00" PCV Valve replacement- does he imagine that a Dealership won't break anything when doing work on a 200K+ mile ancient car, (if they even accept it) and then replace said broken parts for free? lol
@michaeldo6439 3 days ago
Keep the videos coming man, I watch every one from start to finish! Such a joy seeing you fix these cars.
@fotomotoxxiii 3 days ago
I just subbed. Liking the vibes on your channel and the projects you take on. This is a nostalgic car for me I never got to own but suddenly want one again! Canāt wait for the next episode and good job on fixing the stuff so far. That wrx needed some love!
@Frank-mo5ru 4 days ago
Never trust what the previous owner says about the maintenance of a car their selling. They'll jerk you around and lie through their teeth, all the time, telling you they did all the car maintenance services, mean while they did nothing.
@thieltech1 3 days ago
Timing belt kit is a must do maintenance item.
When it breaks , its a mess of bent valves etc.
Was more important then any of the other stuff you did.
When it breaks , its a mess of bent valves etc.
Was more important then any of the other stuff you did.
@ACoolior 1 day ago
I am a fan from Thailand and I think I heard you saying "kob kun ka" several times.
@heyxilong 3 days ago (edited)
heres a tip to keep your floor clean. Go to home depot or lowes and get cement mixing pans. theyre black pans to mix cement. Theyre cheap and you can use them for anything. Oil changes, radiator fluid and even rust and brake fluids. then you can empty it into old oil gallons and get rid of it. im a subaru fan. 2015 wrx with 170,000 miles and runs mint. oh i forgot. when a caliper pin seizes all you have to do is drill a hole on the end, spray it with knock r lose from CRC and push a punch thru it. Then you can weld it or leave it like that.
@sschwen8050 3 days ago (edited)
I donāt care what anyone says, the cabin air filter (or filters!) is never easy to change!
@ned_designs_ 3 days ago
Another satisfying repair Macho ! Canāt wait for the cosmetic restoration vid especially making those hazy lights look brand new again ! Maybe you could practice ur painting skills on this car give her a whole new paint job maybe WRB or yellow lol
@ianbotts3702 21 hours ago (edited)
Good job!!! That's a great start!
You got some rust you need to use a penetrative fluid like pb blast. Spray it and let it sit overnight if you can, and again before you undo it. If that doesn't do it then use the torch and try not to breath it in lol. You might try to clean out the fins on the intercooler with an air compressor going from back to front. Maybe the radiator too. Only use genuine subaru thermostat or have problems later. Look it up. You also need to use subaru coolant or at least Asian blue. I think peak makes an Asian green too but i stick with blue. Having the incorrect cool and can erode the head gasket passages, leading to the very classic condition that creates a pinhole in the head gasket, pushing exhaust gases into your radiator. Good job with the spill free funnel. That thing is a nightmare to bleed without.
With that air intake, you really need to have a tune for it. If you have a cobb accessport, make sure that you're on an appropriate tune or it will mess up the fuel air ratio. Also make sure you're using the correct gas octane for the tune. Always 91 and above to avoid predetination. Get some maf cleaner and clean off your maf sensor like once a year or something. I hope you got ngk iridium plugs. This, and maybe that'll you can lube. The metal cable that connects to your throttle. You can also adjust the wire and on the throttle butterfly, but you can't make it too tight. You should be able to press down with your finger about half an inch before it actually starts to open the throttle. Any more or any less and you're gonna have problems. It does stretch over time, so adjusting it. A little bit is pretty normal. You can use like a silicone lube. On the part that goes inside the plastic sleeve.
I would also recommend you take a look at the brakes next. There could be some old brake fluid sitting in the lines. So bleeding them all out could be helpful. It would be a good idea to replace the rubber brake lines. They're only like a foot long and they're easy to replace. You can also upgrade to braided stainless steel hoses for a better brake feel. The brake calipers take the pins out, use plastic brushes that you would find buy the paint gun section at the store with brake, clean, clean out, those bores that the slide pin goes in. Use. Actual slide pin grease. Replace all of the rubber pieces on the slide pin. If the slide pin is rusty, replace it too. Don't mix up the top and the bottom. Sometimes one is longer or looks different.
You're probably gonna have to deal with a lot of air leaks until you sort out your vacuum hoses and stuff. You can get a cheap smoke machine to help test for vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Look into the oil, pick up tube problems that cause starvation and destroy motors. You might replace it with a better pickup tube. Another common issue is these little filters inside the banjo bolts on the oil lines. You're supposed to just remove them. I know they're common issue. Is the screws on the oil pump backing plate coming out. Get a cheap impact screwdriver. It's like fifteen bucks, you hit it with a hammer to take the screws out on the back of the oil pump. And lock tight them when you put them back in. All these common w x problems, you can look up, they are well known. With 200k timing belt, pulleys, water pump and timing belt tensioner all need to be replaced if they haven't been recently. I recommend you just get the Aisin brand kit. They make great parts. Very well trusted by wrx people. Your fuel pump might be on its way out. So something to consider in the future. If you start having some issues.
The only other suggestion I have is proper ppe like mask and gloves when necessary and make sure you're using eye protection with any kind of brushes, sprays or things like that. Usually, people don't get good at wearing ppe until they realize they've done so much damage to themselves that they start doing it.
You got some rust you need to use a penetrative fluid like pb blast. Spray it and let it sit overnight if you can, and again before you undo it. If that doesn't do it then use the torch and try not to breath it in lol. You might try to clean out the fins on the intercooler with an air compressor going from back to front. Maybe the radiator too. Only use genuine subaru thermostat or have problems later. Look it up. You also need to use subaru coolant or at least Asian blue. I think peak makes an Asian green too but i stick with blue. Having the incorrect cool and can erode the head gasket passages, leading to the very classic condition that creates a pinhole in the head gasket, pushing exhaust gases into your radiator. Good job with the spill free funnel. That thing is a nightmare to bleed without.
With that air intake, you really need to have a tune for it. If you have a cobb accessport, make sure that you're on an appropriate tune or it will mess up the fuel air ratio. Also make sure you're using the correct gas octane for the tune. Always 91 and above to avoid predetination. Get some maf cleaner and clean off your maf sensor like once a year or something. I hope you got ngk iridium plugs. This, and maybe that'll you can lube. The metal cable that connects to your throttle. You can also adjust the wire and on the throttle butterfly, but you can't make it too tight. You should be able to press down with your finger about half an inch before it actually starts to open the throttle. Any more or any less and you're gonna have problems. It does stretch over time, so adjusting it. A little bit is pretty normal. You can use like a silicone lube. On the part that goes inside the plastic sleeve.
I would also recommend you take a look at the brakes next. There could be some old brake fluid sitting in the lines. So bleeding them all out could be helpful. It would be a good idea to replace the rubber brake lines. They're only like a foot long and they're easy to replace. You can also upgrade to braided stainless steel hoses for a better brake feel. The brake calipers take the pins out, use plastic brushes that you would find buy the paint gun section at the store with brake, clean, clean out, those bores that the slide pin goes in. Use. Actual slide pin grease. Replace all of the rubber pieces on the slide pin. If the slide pin is rusty, replace it too. Don't mix up the top and the bottom. Sometimes one is longer or looks different.
You're probably gonna have to deal with a lot of air leaks until you sort out your vacuum hoses and stuff. You can get a cheap smoke machine to help test for vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Look into the oil, pick up tube problems that cause starvation and destroy motors. You might replace it with a better pickup tube. Another common issue is these little filters inside the banjo bolts on the oil lines. You're supposed to just remove them. I know they're common issue. Is the screws on the oil pump backing plate coming out. Get a cheap impact screwdriver. It's like fifteen bucks, you hit it with a hammer to take the screws out on the back of the oil pump. And lock tight them when you put them back in. All these common w x problems, you can look up, they are well known. With 200k timing belt, pulleys, water pump and timing belt tensioner all need to be replaced if they haven't been recently. I recommend you just get the Aisin brand kit. They make great parts. Very well trusted by wrx people. Your fuel pump might be on its way out. So something to consider in the future. If you start having some issues.
The only other suggestion I have is proper ppe like mask and gloves when necessary and make sure you're using eye protection with any kind of brushes, sprays or things like that. Usually, people don't get good at wearing ppe until they realize they've done so much damage to themselves that they start doing it.
@DxGamer6767 3 days ago
32:18 I had the same issue, adjust the clutch pedal / master pushrod, in the back of the pedal there should be a locking nut to hold the rod. There is a method that Subaru says in the fsm (although im not sure if its the same for the wrx) but generally you want it to where if you compress the slave, fluid should go back to the master and it should uncompress easily / quick enough.
If you adjust it too deep into the master, there would be preload, so gear shifting would be easier but the clutch would essentially be partially pressed down so it would bounce around.
If its too far out from the master, like was in my case (and probably yours), it will engage properly but shifting would be rough to get in.
And also check the cap, if there is no leaks internally, the cap could be faulty, and if its not a vacuum seal it wont work as well. Had a bad experience with an aftermarket clutch master, the cap didnt seal so all my fluid went bad in like 6 months / less than ~ 2000 kms, but air didnt ""get"" into the line
If you adjust it too deep into the master, there would be preload, so gear shifting would be easier but the clutch would essentially be partially pressed down so it would bounce around.
If its too far out from the master, like was in my case (and probably yours), it will engage properly but shifting would be rough to get in.
And also check the cap, if there is no leaks internally, the cap could be faulty, and if its not a vacuum seal it wont work as well. Had a bad experience with an aftermarket clutch master, the cap didnt seal so all my fluid went bad in like 6 months / less than ~ 2000 kms, but air didnt ""get"" into the line
@CannaConvos_with_slyakaloco 3 days ago
Oh man! Having to get a Crows foot wrench brings back bad memories š
I had to order a set of special ones to fix the power steering pump on a 98 Ford Escort Xz2 š®
The Dealer Quoted $1,100 to Fix My $500 WRX... I Did It Myself!
Macho Motors
57,456 views
In this video, we continue bringing this $500 Subaru WRX back to life! After getting it running again, we find out it needs a full 200,000-mile tune-up along with a bunch of other annoying issues. Instead of paying the dealership to handle it, we tackle all the repairs ourselves and see how much we can save.
____________________________________________________________________
Check out the Foxwell BT705 Car Battery Tester here:
https://amzn.to/4hhI1Dh
________________________________________________________
š© Everything in My Garage ā https://amzn.to/3Xz3mh4
__________________________________________________________
Amazon WISHLIST šļø : https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls...
________________________________________________________
Follow the journey off YouTube š
šø Instagram: @macho.motors
š„ TikTok:@macho.motors