most general contractors have moved on to the easier to install membrane from Schluter Ditra or others, it costs more but seems to work as well for the past 20 years or so.. but I just had my tiny bathroom floor redone pulling up a 60 year old cement board and tile that was perfectly intact.. so its your call. one thing is certain if you do the cement flooring right, it will last forever, if you slap it on without good thinset or taping the edges it will crack and fall appart in a few months or so.
I did this same process at my brother's house back in 2003 the tile has not moved or cracked and looks like new. We are talking the entryway, foyer and walkway to kitchen. This is the right way!
Another issue with the screws... I understand that the drywall screws will have CHEMICAL REACTION with the DUROC and FAIL... one has to use a NON REACTIVE SCREWS ... It's true for many projects in many fields..
Thank you! This is a very nice video, good to see the right way to do things. I wonder how much working time that extruding thinset has... if enough to move on to the next board without problems. I'm so wary of hiring anyone since I've been around long enough to see bad job after bad job by hired contractors. Wouldn't it be wonderful to find a skilled honest contractor who doesn't mind working for a change!
Would someone please list brand names and product name for “latex fortified mortar” and “type 1 adhesive”. I try to buy joint compound for Durock brand cement board and the fine print on the contains says not suitable for cement board.
Thanks , boss ! Appreciate the tips on install ,glad you talked about setting in thinset , didn’t know I needed to do that , but certainly will … don’t want a callback from the misses 😉