That's brilliantly explained. Have you done a flashing tail lamp video? That would be good!

Interesting!

Layouts looking good too!

Great video 👍

Wish my wiring looked as neat 🤣🤣

Good video. I made the mistake of buying the DCC Concepts (Layout Concepts) "steam era" ground signals which promised a pair of murky slightly yellowish lights plus red  due to the muck often flying around then. They turned out to be bright yellow plus red and do not look that good. Just as well they were cheap on sale. I will be replacing them with red and white when funds permit. Also, the switching automatically can be done if using Alpha ip Digital point motors along with some small connection boards.

In general, controlling bidirectional LEDs (that is, LEDs which require current reversal to change colors) is much more difficult than controlling conventional LEDs. Your solution is by far the simplest, because you can supply two switches in a single device (i.e. the DPDT switch.) Unfortunately, this doesn't lend itself well to automation.
Most point control mechanisms (I hope I have the British term correct! In the US, we say "turnout control") include two SPDT switches: when the points are in the straight position, one switch is open and the other is closed; and when the points are in the diverging position, the first switch is closed and the second is open. This makes it trivial to light, say, a red LED when the points are straight, and a green LED when the points are diverging. The problem is that the two switches usually share a common lead, which makes polarity reversal a problem. I have utterly failed to devise a simple circuit that can change the polarity through a single LED (or set of parallel LEDs in the case of your signals.)
You can, of course, program an Arduino, or other microprocessor, to reverse polarity of any number of LEDs (or even switch conventional LEDs on or off) based on a simple push button input. But that's a topic for another day...

I’ve cheated and used a signatrak controller to drive these (and other) signals as it ties in with my other DCC kit.

Great video explaining but how do you get the signals to go back to danger automatically after a train has passed?

Hiya.. could you not have wired the two indicator LEDs into the single DPDT switch that controls the actual signal itself? Although I did notice that the double DPDT switches were cheaper than the single DPDT switch

What do you use as a power source? Can these be wired into the bus wire?

Hi Nigel....perhaps you could do a video explaining the rypes of signal...particularly ground / shunt / calling on types.
Just a thought to help us non pros :-)

Kia ora Nigel, a quick question about signals and feathers, given your ‘day & sometimes night job’ are you aware of any location where a signal head has or had 6 feathers??

You didn't wire the entire layout in the same red wire? (Genuine happening from a club I was at as a kid. Went well)

Hairy  thumbs 😊

You could've made life a bit easier for yourself with the wiring lol. 😂 2 short lengths of wire, strip both ends, and solder into an "X", leaving the sheathing on either side of the stripped ends. In.otjer words solder top right to bottom left, and top left to bottom right, a bit neater and less to get tangled up with - good signals, Ive adapted mine to make " calling on" signals for signalling locos/ units into an occupied platform, exactly the same, except I've shaved off the lens hood, used filler to cover the red lense and a bit of alteration to the wires by opening up the back of the signal with a razor blade, before reassembling. Getting the signal off the post was the most difficult, the wires seem to be " gunked" into the tube with black tac, I had to run a soldering iron up and down the post to soften it up so I could slide it off.

Look forward to your next video, currently fixing yellow/white shunt signals to my layout, only 2 thank goodness.

Hate the huge black box on these grounds signals. Not prototypical