Yea man I remember my first reef tank was started with fiji live rock.  It was moderately priced back in 2007 but no where near as expensive it is today.

Been researching this topic for days now.  After all the different ideas to get rid of Dino’s I decided to go the UV route.  Just ordered one yesterday and can’t wait to try it.  Still looking at peoples tales and stumbled upon this vid.  Glad it sounds like I’m making the right choice off the bat.  Hope it works for me as it did for you.  Cheers

I know the secret to beating Dino’s. I came to this by swimming in the ocean and observing what’s going on there.

I'm rly happy I stumbled onto this video! I am a Moffat clan descendant living in Canada but proud of my pedigree. If this wrecks my Dino's I owe you a tonne!

Hey my nitrates are at 22 and phosphates at 0.2
My sand keeps turning brown so should i lower my nutrients ?

I just bought my uv to start this battle thanks and i hope it will helps to get rid of

When i had dinos,  i had 70 ppm nitrates LOL

Your view on old live rock is incorrect.  While it had biodiversity, much of it was dead (due to transportation etc).  You had to cycle it yourself to deal with the decomposition of the dead organisms.  You still got dinos and cyano btw - it's all part of the process.  It certainly wasn't an instant cycled tank ready for lps/sps!

After years having reefs, no.
You adjust PAR, yes the intensity of light.
DONT do a WC till its over.

Thank me later.

I think you are correct.   I had reef tanks back in the day when everyone sold real live rock and coral pieces, not frags on plugs.   Never had the ugly stage.   Fast forward to last couple of years I’m back in the hobby again and I’ve set up 5 tanks; I tried fake rock twice and both times was a disaster; I actually tore one tank down and started over.   The other three tanks I started with Ocean Direct sand a real live rock and no ugly stage.

I hope you’re right . Interestingly years ago I ran a tmc uv system. On my power filter since some of the old books said that uv light levels on the reef helped sterilise the water and reduce plankton blooms. . Obviously at see blooms surface at night from the depths. And that can’t happen in a closed system ,  thanks for your advice.  It makes sense.

Hows your tank doing now? I have dinos (ostreopsis) and have beat it once only for it to return. The UV was off for a few days after running it solidly for the previous 6 months. The ostreopsis I have now seem to be much more aggresive and my UV is having little effect.

You're a 100% right, my friend. I accidentally unplugged my UV filter for 3 days. Started looking at my tank. Why is all this brown s*** in here? What's going on looked at my light, it was off. Oh, s***, I forgot to plug it back in when I was doing my cord management. Plugged it back in now it's all good.

Well, Thank You!  Real time information I can put to use.  Your goniopora looks great!   'Preciate the time it took to put this info out there.  "Never give up !" 🎉😂

Started with dry rock 8 months ago, been battling lca for about the last 4 months going to give your method a try cheers

I'm not gonna watch this whole video, but UV sterilizer is the best.

I’ve been struggling with large cell amphidinium for 2 years now. I tried dosing silicates and it did work, but it took months and they came back as soon as I stopped dosing. I may try the uv as a last resort. Maybe I can blast them off the sand into the water column. Can I ask which pump you used with the D D UV unit ?

100% agree. overpowered UV has helped me twice with Dinos in the past.

Would running a high powered uv over a sump help clear up an outbreak in a display tank or does it need to be directly over?

It's not raising the nutrients and adding pods that work. It's getting the nutrients balanced and adding pods that work. And it can take anywhere from 3 weeks to 3 months. The uv is a band aid which is fine if you intend to keep it on. Uv's are good for keeping ick numbers down if the flow rate is in the right range aswell