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Choose the BEST sewing pattern size for YOU! Body VS Finished Garment Measurements!

Evelyn Wood

52,603 views

Do you often find that when you choose a size based on the pattern recommendations it’s just too big and does not fit how you want at all?

Let’s talk about how to choose the right size for you in this final video of the ‘Start to Sew’ series.

The key to choosing the best sewing pattern size is understanding the difference between Body Measurements and Finished Garment Measurements!

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20 Comments

@LynHannan 3 years ago

I've been known to measure pattern pieces to get the finished garment measurements. You measure from stitching line to stitching line at the horizontal levels (bust, hip, etc) and subtract the relevant amounts for gathering, pleats and darts.
As for knowing how much ease feels good on you - take a look at your favourite clothing items. Measure them at their finished measurements (seam to seam) and compare to your actual body measurements. Write all this down in a dedicated notebook. For each item you will need to include the type of fabrics used; woven vs knitted fabric, how it drapes (stiffness vs scrunchyness), stretch-ability; as well as the grain-lines of each pattern piece - all make a difference which accumulates to the end product. This way, you will accumulate data on the garments that fit you well in all types of fabrics. Perhaps you could do the same for garments that are a little tight in only one area - but write in red so it stands out that it's uncomfortable rather than a wrong size. This would indicate where your comfort level has been exceeded in the tightness factor.

@rhondastolle1550 2 years ago

WHY DOES NO ONE TELL PEOPLE THIS!?!

In other words - THANK YOU!

@denisedorsey2889 3 years ago

Just to add to the confusion…I always make my vertical measurement changes on a pattern first (lower/raise the bust, waist at MY waist etc) then I flat measure the pattern and compare to my body measurements. Another tip: take those body measurements every time…we change! Happy sewing everyone!

@miaochs7716 3 years ago

Still learning and absorbing information. Unfortunately I work full time and commute 55 hours a week. So when I do sew I like watching before I attempt things. Saturday you tube is my rest and education time. Hopefully become one of your students in about 19 months when I retire. Good information Evelyn. Never to old to learn new skill.

@lauroralei 3 years ago

I'm 6'2" and fairly slender, so I tend to make my own clothes if I want something nice, as off-the-rack rarely fits well. Learned a lot through trial and error to never follow body measurements or even finished garment measurements, I tend to add a lot of my own custom adjustments based on how I now know fabrics drape on my body. It's a lot of frustrating maths but it's LOVELY when it comes together perfectly with a bit of seam adjustment. Making a custom mannequin to my body shape also helped that process enormously

@lynnshepard7485 3 years ago

Lots of indie patterns don’t have seam lines marked on the pattern pieces. Remember to take seam allowances into consideration when measuring your patterns! 😊

@annalynn9325 1 year ago

My favorite tip from the knitting world is to take the measurements of a similar garment you own that fits you well, one that has your preferred level of ease, to determine what measurements to make your garment to

@SparkyOne549 3 years ago (edited)

I’m not a beginner, but I watch your videos because, maybe there’s something I don’t know. I am always learning, no matter how much I think I know. Many times I can size down 2 sizes on a woven pattern with no problem.
I love your eyelet top! I used to have one as a kid and I loved it.

@lunzie01 3 years ago

I've been sewing for decades and still learn so much from your videos! ❤

@LeannaRuthJensen 3 years ago

The pattern companies are smart to make ease "extra" because that is such an individual choice. Having been raised in clothes that had "room to grow" I need more ease to be comfortable in my clothes. But I know others who are uncomfortable in baggy clothes, so we would not pick the same ease.

@arvettadelashmit9337 3 years ago

Our age can change everything. As we age, our weight might stay the same; but, our body measurements may change. An example is my back length has gotten longer while my front length measurement stays the same. My waist has gotten thicker, while my hips have become smaller, and my belly has become bigger. My bust line is not in the same place it used to be. Patterns are designed for young bodies. A loose fitting long dress (with no waist line) works well for me. I must have sleeves to help hide my upper arms. However, jumpers give me many options in styling and comfort.

My High School sewing teacher, Mrs. French, taught us to measure the pattern for the true measurements. You have to take care not to include the seam allowances and darts. Many times the measurements you get will not match what is printed on the pattern and envelope.

@apl1515 3 years ago

I LOVE that you covered this. The last garment I attempted to make was well over 5 years and the reason I gave up was the dress I was trying to make came out ENORMOUS, gigantic even! I didn’t know how to accommodate for the finished garment being I’m guessing 4 sizes too big. I’m ready to try again and this knowledge will help me so much on the next attempt! Thank you! 🙏🏼💗

@meowyimeow 3 years ago

Evelyn, you made a video where you talked about a hard to find tape measure that starts from 0 at each end. I couldn’t find any online but I found one today at Joann’s (US fabric/craft store). The keyword to look for is “flip” as in “flip and measure.” The one I bought is from Dritz - “Fashion Color Tape Measure.” On the back it says “Always ready to use from either end. Just flip and measure.” There were at least 4 tapes that used this language including a couple in the quilt section (extra long tapes). This tape has inches on both sides and metric on one. I hope this helps someone!

@BYBabbra 3 years ago

When I realized about ease I began to be able to get my projects to fit. Some patterns don't seam to show the finished garment size so what I do is look for the small mark stating "Natural Waist" on the pattern, then I measure the actual pattern for the size I am considering (with a little bit of maths) I can get an idea of what the finished size is likely to be.

@colleencooke1038 2 years ago

Thank you for your tutorials. I have never sewn in my life just sew on buttons and hems. I am now 74 and have decided to learn. Just a tad late to start 😅. I’m extra large in bust but only size 12 hips so I look like I’m wearing a tent. So I’m determined to learn and look forward to any advice.

@yvettefeyjoo-booth2670 3 years ago

Thank you so much for explaining this. My biggest problem in fitting are my hips but when you explained about design I now know that certain patterns no matter how pretty are just not meant for my body type! Can’t begin to tell you how much this has helped me in choosing a pattern. Love your videos and truly appreciate everything you cover in them.

@thewisconsinlife2401 3 years ago

I am a heavy lady...and want to learn how to make patterns....not a lot of patterns my size. Thank you for your channel

@terrymenz5838 3 years ago

50 yrs of sewing and did not know about this information! I learn so much from you so keep it coming!

@Hiker_who_Sews 2 years ago

Thinking back to when today's vintage patterns were new... we pinned in pleats, darts, etc. on the tissue, then used a tape measure and measured seam line to seam line.

@JoBrown-mn3ww 3 years ago

Thank you so much. I can't believe that in all my years of sewing (oh so many) I have never made that connection between finished garment size, ease and fit. Every day is a school day x