I ❤ Your videos
Thanks David for your effort and time 👍

Very good as usual thank you :)

Your videos and tutorials on Brewfather are fantastic.  I had to double check, but there is a part in the equipment section where you can adjust the water/grain ratio for mash thickness as you discuss in this video. I think the default is the thinner mash (1.5qt/lb). I never adjusted mine and that is where it is at.

Thanks David.!

Nice useful guide david thanks, I bought my brewzilla late last year but due to ongoing health issues I still have not used it so this guide is a handy thing to refresh my memory. Everything I studied towards my first all grain brew has unfortunately been put to the back of my mind. Thanks again.

Thanks for this. I do 'top up' the big pot, as I'm boiling, with distilled water, so as to keep the amount (vol) of water, used in the 'cooking phase', as constant as possible.
After fermentation & obviously after multiple rackings, the 5 gallon carboy, that I use, is usually way down from where it should be.
I take an FG reading to see if I CAN add (distilled) water, and usually I can, without diluting the beverage too much.
I usually (gently) add distilled water to the 'final' carboy, that I intend to use to siphon & bottle.

🍺

Something else to consider, but I guess it may fall under grain absorption.  If you going to be using whole/fresh hops, those soak up ALOT of liquid.

I do believe my Anvil 18 gallon, includes the dead space, already. I use the markings inside the kettle.
I've measured, there's a difference.
I usually have to calculate sparge water additives, for a gallon extra, because of this. I use my Anvil 10.5, for a hot liquor tank. I got a Wee bit heavy Scottish ale, bubbling away, 14psi.
Thanks for reassuring, I'm doing it right!

Thanks for the video - as a new all grain brewer it was exactly what i was looking for!  

One question for you.  When calculating the sparge water volume, shouldn't it be simply total water - strike water?  It seems to me that if you also subtract losses from total, then you'll have too little water in the boil.

Do you have measurements for a G40?

I enjoy your videos David but what this one is missing is how to calculate total water required for a given batch size.
I thought that was given on the equipment info bu the numbers dont stack up for me.
Taking the G30 example, why for a 23L batch would you need 36L pre boil volume if the losses during and after the boil only add up to 8.5L? 31.5L is more like it?

Good information - and a good reminder of the details we can take for granted.  I have a spreadsheet that tracks each brew details - including how much water there is through each step.  With the averages from those results, I can "back in" my total water number.  I then compare it to what BrewFather said my total water should be as a reasonability check......the usually to within less than .2 gallons

I have had the need to add additional sparge water to get my boil volume correct.  Often this is when I have added rice hulls or flaked grains.  But I can't find a place in brewfather to account for these additions......usually about 1/4 gallon or more.  If I can track it better, I should be able to manage it.  If it helps, I'm using an Anvil 18.  Can Brewfather handle this extra water addition that isn't accounted for in the recipe?

Hello David, thanks for your usefull videos. My problem is that in the Brewzilla 35L all in one system the   water to grain ratio must be about 2.5 to 3.3 L/kg plus 7L of foundation water, so the amount of total mash water must be 19.5L  to 23.5L This is the principal drawback of this type of system to make high O.G beers.

Software... Software?
It would probably take me an extra day of brewing if I used software! 😂
Thank you!