Easy to listen to a DIY bloke who knows his stuff !

Nice , clear piece thanks. And I really agree how it is a great opportunity, at these times, to clean and apply protectant to the inside of the often -
overlooked Wheel Guards.
Thanks for your help.

Great Video thanks. One thing to mention- The 13/16 nut at the top of the damper rod is exactly that - a NUT. If it decides to come loose and unscrew off the top of the damper rod, instead of the allen bolt at the bottom of the  housing breaking loose and unscrewing- you need a long slot screwdriver to fit into the top of the damper rod- thank god some bright engineer at Triumph thought to put that slot in it too! Otherwise you would be buggered..... With a long slot end screwdriver ( at least 16" long),you can then hold the damper rod while you break loose the allen bolt at bottom.  I had to do this yesterday!

Thanks. I can now move forward with the front forks on my Silver Jubilee after watching your video

Only thing I can add to this VERY useful video is after looking down inside the fork legs, mine were nasty. It made me think the oil might never have been changed, or no one paid attention to that since '77. Some carb cleaner and a good mopping with a shop towel on one of those spring-loaded grabber sticks made it look nice again.
Thanks for all you do!

Very good video with great camera work so we can actually see what's going on, thanks very much.

Thanks a lot mate! That is exactly what I looked for.

gday u helped me no end with my new t140 "76 replacing fork tubes seals rebuild brakes etc well done video

Thank you for vidio. Easy to understand. Well made

Good job, Useful info...nicely done, sir..Thanks...'79 T140E

I delved into my forks (after receiving inspiration from your video here) and can report that I met a few headaches. The cap screw (AKA Allen Screw) in the base of my LH leg undid easily without my needing to even try and hold the inner damper. However I wasn't so lucky with the screw in the base of my RH leg. So I gritted my teeth (because I HATE damaging my tools) and ground down the outer circumference of my 13/16" socket to under 27.5 mm diameter so I could slide it down into that leg from the top and thus grip the hex on top of the spinning damper. What did it do? Well the damned nut on top of the damper unwound instead, leaving me still with my screw locked into my damper shaft (but with a lovely nut in my hand to admire)!!!! "Expletive". That of course left me no choice but to drill the head off the Allen Screw (which wasn't easy of course because the screw was harder than normal steel and required multiple resharpening of my drill bits and the use of cutting oil etc).

But at least now I finally have both fork legs looking pretty and in great condition with new seals and new damper O-rings etc.

I thought you might like a laugh. I can remember having similar experiences way back when I was a teenager riding my Tiger 110 to and from college. Why old classic Triumph motorcycles never turned me off engineering I'll never know! In actual fact, I still love engineering and even love working on these British bikes (where the design engineers never considered accessibility of fasteners and forced mechanics to follow complicated sequences for even the most simple of jobs) . I must be a glutton for punishment!!!!

Thanks for the very informative video, however I'm not sure how you managed to get a socket to sit on the nut on top of the damper, when I tried various sizes none would sit on it as there appears to not be enough clearance for a normal socket to fit. I ended up using a home made large flat blade to hold the damper rod still.

Super, I will now go ahead with my T160 forks

Another helpful video.  Thank you.   I like the way you say fork oil.  Kinda sounds like f-ck all.

Seems like a weird design with that dowdy washer on the inside of the fork.   How do you know it's in place when you put the bolt back in?   I've got a minor leak around that allen head and I figured I'd take it out, maybe put a new dowdy washer on.   Looks like in order to do that I'll have to pull the fork off.   I was hoping I could just take off the bottom fork cap, remove the wheel, unscrew that allen bolt and replace the washer.

Can you show the profile of the seal removing tool at 12.58 in your video.?  I have a very tight seal on my bike forks.

Atf is about 7wt oil.

So if I just needed to replace the oil would I need to take off the wheel and bars .great video by the way

Thank you for a very useful and informative video. I too have a minor leak from the Allen key /Dowty washer at the bottom of the fork. I note you had a washer on the allen key bolt; what sort of washer? Would the use of another Dowty washer next to the Allen key bolt stem the leak? Without having to strip down the fork?

I have tried every 13/16 socket I have none of them will go down the tube.