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I have designed this system in LaGrange Ga. 30 years ago. You can use it for cooling with an absorption system. We used a steel surplus LNG tank and a non-toxic petroleum based heating fluid for the storage which reached 400F+.  We fabricated Solar collectors from steel pipe routed through salvaged florescent light fixture reflectors. Dip heaters in the tank supplied heating and domestic hot water throughout the 4000 SF dwelling. and yes I am a licensed professional engineer-with 40+ years of experience. Bravo! Well done!

This system in Otokok,Alberta was built in 2007. It was recently decommissioned due to replacement and maintenance costs.

Now hook a solar tube water heater to it with a 12v pump and damn that would be amazing.

The problem with water is it caps out at just over 200 degrees before it flashes to steam. And yes it absorbs heat faster than sand but it also losses it faster too. That is why sand is used for serious thermal storage. It tops out at 2000 degrees tempreture and that's far above what water does. Even if you cut that in hald you need 1/10 the size of a sand battery as you do a water battery. So instead of 1000 gallon water tank you only need a 100 gallon sand battery tank. And that tank can easily store 5 times the heat the water tank can.

Drop some zinc and copper plates into the tank and use it as a chemical battery.

It depends on the time distribution of the hot and cold, shiny and dark periods in that area. If you have dark and cold months in the winter, forget this storage.

For my semi detached house in the UK - I use 13000kwh of gas right now. I would need 66 of these tanks to store 250 tons of water to get through the winter.
Cheap?  At least $50,000.
Just the tanks. Now for the panels to collect that energy. And the pumps. And the control equipment. And the underfloor heating. Another $50k, probably.
The volume of water storage needed is twice the floorplan of my house at 2.5m deep. About as much water as my local public swimming pool.
I think I’ve seriously underestimated the cost … more like $200k.

I get that earth tubes which deposit air into the home are a good thing and not part of building code and maybe have issues of mold etc...  fine.  
Why not do it anyway but have it with a flapper valve that draws from it when the outside heat pump condenser  unit needs to cycle - put  it  in a small enclosure and have a second flapper that allows rejecting air the same as happens now.

Buy this and the Tesla powerwall and you have a system that works.

Putting a tank in the ground to hold glycol , and then running it through a geothermal ground loop that is doable , and so is that in solar , if you want to heat it up even more

A DIY water based heat storage is only relevant, if you have a rocket heater of stove, which deliver 25kW and more in an hour.

That tank only holds enough to heat typical house in typical Midwest winter 3-4 days without recharging, so this is very misleading unless I missed that disclaimer somewhere.

Does this also address the Hot Water usage?

How do you pump the heat?

I wonder if we paired up a this water heat storage system with a Sterling generator, perhaps we could convert the excess heat from the tank into usable electrical energy? All we would need is to place the Sterling engine in an environment where it could harvest temperature differences.

That hot water in the ground is gunna cool off very fast in winter with every circulation cycle with nothing continuing to reheat it.
I dont remember you saying how long it is supposed to last once you start removing the heat to heat a house or even just a room in winter.

It’s much less expensive to move Heat, and much more expensive to Generate!  Curious as to how this would work in my area?  Currently installing 4 , 300’ ground loops of 3/4” vapor barrier PEX, and will be feeding it through a 20”x20” triple pass Heat exchanger. The loops Start at 6’ deep out of foundation and Drop to between 10’to14’ deep, I believe this will cover my A/C side of things.hooking up a Tankless propane water heater to a 115 gallon ,4500 watt electric water tank and feeding this through a heat exchanger for heat.. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 I figure if the cooling side gives me year round 57 degree water year round, the heating system will have a Smaller gap to Fill… ..?….🤷🏼‍♂️

Kinda still need electricity and a pump, but not a bad idea.

This is fiction. My ~2000 sqft house needs around 50 million BTU during winter. The idea that a 667,000 BTU storage can store all of my heating needs for winter from the summer heat is absurd. This video does not consider heat losses either. Even if the tank is full, heat loss should drain all of the stored heat within a month. Actual use during the winter could drain it in a few days.

This also does not consider newton’s law of cooling. When it is full, heating your home with the winter will be quick. As it drains, the rare at which it can heat your home will drop quadratically. At some point, you will have heat going into your house, but the thermostat would not be rising anymore, before the thermostat starts dropping even with this contraption in use.

There is a real thing called geothermal heating/cooling that actually works, but that uses huge ground loops and a heat pump, and is far more expensive than this. Honestly, this idea would work better with a heat pump, but using a solar collector will do very little unless you collect enough heat to last the night.

That said, this might work on paper if you had 75,000 gallons of water and disregarded losses. It will not work in reality. The Drake Landing’s efficient Alberta homes were real, but they needed 39 million BTU per home, and used huge boreholes that went deep, just like a typical geothermal heating pump. They did not use a 1000 gallon septic tank.

Finally, most polyethylene septic tanks are not rated to go above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. If the channel owner believes this, he should do this on his house and report how it goes. It will not go well.