It works really well with an air compressor that has the psi built up to the range you want, then blast it in. The air pump you have slowly builds air, and is almost worthless in this application.
The sediment buster works very well. I used it recently on my hot water heater and I was amazed how well it worked. I found you just have to keep using it now and then to prevent the sediment was building up
To anyone wondering about the Pex method he mentioned you can do this: Remove the relief valve, crimp a 1/2" boiler drain onto a piece of pex long enough to reach the bottom of the tank, stick it through the relief opening, and pump from the top with a transfer pump, 1/2" pex fits nicely.
You’re supposed to build a pressure of the tank leave that valve closed when you get a bunch of pressure to take that you’re supposed to open the valve
the old college try..."The old college try" means to give something your best, most enthusiastic effort, even if the chances of success are slim. The phrase originated in baseball in the early 20th century to describe a heroic but often futile attempt to make a difficult play, and it has since evolved to mean any wholehearted effort in life.
This might work better with typical situations. These people must go through showerheads once a week. Also be careful with having the air compressor below the Schrader because water can backflow into the air pump.
The buster works great. You have to use a small compressor to blast air into the tank. I use my dewalt battery compressor and blast 30-45 lbs of air, quick short blasts with cold valve off and hose off. The blasts of air open up that channel of sediment in the tank to let the water flow out the drain. Been using it for a few years to clean tanks.