OpenTube

How Strong Do You Need To Be?

Lattice Training

49,880 views

Our friends over at Kilter set us a challenge, a very pinchy challenge! The Kilterboard is known for having some amazing grips and some great pinches. However most grip strength training methods these days use a hangboard and train crimp grips. But what about pinch strength? We ran a little experiment with our climbing coaches to see how closely pinch strength actually relates to board climbing. It turns out quite a lot!

We first tested our pinch strength on the Lattice Quad Block (https://latticetraining.com/product/q...) to see who was the strongest. We then got to work on the list of blocs Kilter had set us, list below;

V4+: Game of Thrones Season 8 (45º)
V5+: Vice City (45º)
V6: Pinch-E(45º)
V8: Press Du Sau! (40º&45º)
V9: Wyoming Japanese (50º)
V10: Arrested Particulate (40º)
And if you make it that far....
V11: D004 (45º)

Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: https://latticetraining.com/plans/

Download the Crimpd App:
App store - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimp...
Google Play - https://play.google.com/store/apps/de...

20 Comments

@fgbae8220 4 years ago

gotta say, finger positioning on the kilterboard pinches matters a lot

@wild-ttv 4 years ago

Trained pitches randomly cause they looked cool to climb on and improved my climbing tenfolds by mistake

@BecauseVikingsCan 4 years ago

I made my own pinchblock a couple of months ago, and I'm training with it twice a week. It sure helps me climb better (mostly because it costs me less effort to stay on holds)

@Coquiclimbingholds 3 years ago

Yay! This video was awesome! Jackie is the best! I absolutely love climbing on the Kilter board. Also their holds are the bomb!!!

@mitchellbarnow1709 4 years ago

Brilliant demonstration of pinch strength!

@KilterClimbingGrips 4 years ago

Nice work team!

@berghiasl 4 years ago

that was actually quite fun to watch!

@4D_SpaceTime 3 years ago

its nice to see that strenght is strongly corroleting with abillity of climbing certian grades. i had argued with people on several occasion when they were saying that strenght is overated and its not that important.

@vishnumahandran5254 4 years ago

Kilter+Lattice= Ultimate Collab

@truthdefenders- 4 years ago

Did anyone count the "come on's"? 😆

@yoavattias2072 4 years ago

Plssssss Do a pinch training and show your improvement on the wall (before and after)

@Vqrdict 2 years ago

Can you do a video similiar to the pull up / finger strength one where you find an average pinch strength of climbers? That would be cool to see

@danielc925 4 years ago

Lucky I have my sexy new Lattice quad block. I’m going to need it as I have the weight without the length 😫

@chaozzah 4 years ago

Would you say the pinch sizes correlate to your wood block, especially the big one? I struggle so much with that, would be nice to compare :)

@biggussconnus 1 year ago

Ok. I have the quad block now. My low scores has been a reality check

@josefarnold2873 4 years ago

On a Fingertraining day with some very easy, technical climbing: Is it good to incorporate both Hangboarding and Pinchtraining? Or is hangboarding enough?

@tobyfoord-kelcey5532 2 years ago

My experience with wooden pinch blocks has been that conditions and careful skin preparation (I have very dry skin, dry fire off slopey holds often and find that treatments like rhino spit are useful) make a huge difference to performance. I bought one of these metal pinch blocks recently hoping it would give more consistent results but found it to very similar: skin preparation was critical to maximise my grip much like the wooden blocks. My inference is that skin type may play as big a role as actual strength in these scores. Not sure how that could be tested objectively but would be interesting to see results if anyone could devise a study.

@TheValinov 4 years ago

i can pinch 32kg but can only climb the easiest problem on the kilter, if even... you guys might want to try the pinch test again with your "weak" hand. it sounds crazy but i can hold like 1-1,5kg more with it. (normaly i'm right handed)