A very thorough introduction, Ben. Glad you put this together for us. I have experimented with larger or wider secondary bevels on thin axes and have found in my wood they cut well and hold up over time better. When I get down under 18 the steel starts to take on damage on most axes, but with a stouter secondary bevel they hold up. And since the main bevel is the most important I’m not sure the size of the secondary bevel matters that much under 18 degrees. But obviously we’d all prefer to use a razor blade if we could. If only trees grew without limbs lol.
I just found your channel. I consider myself a bit of an expert, who has done some bushcraft, owns a selection of axes, and knows his stuff. A few videos in and I'm starting to worry that I am like one of those tourists who buys an expensive camera and thinks he must automatically be a photographer. You are incredibly skilled, VERY good at explaining your craft, and I consider myself humbled. Thank you mate.
For the local woods and the use I put my axes through, an angle between 20 and 25 degrees with no secondary bevel or microbevel seems to work best. I made a few wedgy hatchets and put 23 degree "flat" grinds on them, along with convex cheeks and they never get stuck in anything. They throw a good chip, too.
Good, concise explanation of good geometry. Lots of axe restorers who otherwise do very good work are still grinding their axes with cringe-worthy, obtuse bevels just to apex and call it finished. Nicely restored axes with terrible geometry are so prevalent that I had to unfollow most of the axe pages I used to follow on IG.
Really nice video Ben! I enjoy the videos you’ve been putting out. Not many take the time to explain and put a science to these things. Thanks for the diagrams. Really cool stuff👍
Well done explanation. I like convex edges but they have to be done with thinner cheeked axes and the bevel on the convex needs to be steep. A short, fat, obtuse, convex edge geometry is quite bouncy and only good for splitting.