A huge thank You to everyone stopping by.

Use a single stage press, double check your powder every case, and you will "save face"

Have been reloading for 48 years. Always on a single stage press. I always check my cases with a flashlight after charging them with powder. No problems in all this time.

These powders are not dangerous , it’s the people who use them carelessly  !  Just like guns are ( Not ) dangerous , it’s the people who use them incorrectly !………  Thanks for bringing this information to new reloaders !…….

I recently picked up a few cans of powder and Titi-group was one of them.  After 30 years of reloading with a RCBS Rock Chucker press, I purchased a Hornady A/P progressive press.  I have to sit as I run the press and my eyes look down at every piece of brass as I place the bullet on the brass and be sure of the amount of powder.   With the Rock Chucker, I worked with a 50 hole tray and after filling each piece of brass with powder, I gently tapped the tray to be sure the powder was level.  Then I used a flashlight to be sure every round had the same amount of powder.

There is no room for "speed" when reloading, period! Progressive presses are inherently dangerous but less time consuming. I've been reloading for over 50 years and can honestly say I've never had a single squib or overcharge after a possible 1,000,000 rounds. It's all about paying attention to each step as you reload.

I have been a reloading instructor for many-many years.  One of the primary rules I insist on is putting the reloading block up with a light behind my shoulder and look over the charged cases. A double charge or squib (light) charge shows quite nicely.  This is not possible with a progressive press. I caution any NEW reloader to start their new hobby with a single station press. Virtually everything you've said is true.  Mistakes can happen and a progressive press can get a new reloader in trouble real fast.

I still use bullseye a lot. Still use the old Lyman powder thrower my grandad gave me 30 years ago. Never used a fancy progressive. Never had any problems either

I have been loading since 1958 as a boy of eight under the watchful eye of my great uncle. We loaded 45 Colt with black powder using an Ideal/Lyman 310 tool and an Ideal No.5 powder measure. I bought a Lyman Spartan press "kit" in 1960 and began loading 38spl, then in 1962 I bought a Lyman Spar-T turret press. I've been using those presses every since. Combined with a Redding No.1 powder scale and an addition of a Lyman #55 measure with assorted other tools, I've seen no need to change. I visually inspect every case for powder level changes prior to loading. Just one of my many steps to loading correctly. And in 64 years of loading smokeless powder I have never double charged a case nor loaded a squib.

I do not care for progressive presses or fancy powder measures. Too many moving parts to suit my tastes. Sure, I'm old school and almost 3/4 of a century old, but I've never blown up a weapon or anything involved with my loading system.
My neighbor can't say the same when he blew up a 10mm Glock with a grossly overloaded case of the wrong powder that came off his progressive press. 😏
Appreciate y'all listening to an old-timer. Stay safe and enjoy your time while you can.

I've been reloading for over 65 years and I've used a lot of Red Dot powder. I've only used it for shot shells though. I used to use Accurate #2 often. However, I found #5 was more versatile in .38 spl/.357mag. The most important thing to remember in reloading is to pay attention to what you're doing! If a friend drops by for a chat, stop reloading! After said friend leaves you can pick up where you left off! Most often I will just run the last 3 cartridges through and when the interruption is gone, start out fresh. That way you dont have to try to remember where you were!

another good reason to stick with a single stage press

Winchester 231 is another good metering, small charge powder. Tite Group is also a low charge weight so double charges are possible. Squibs are a bigger concern for me ever since I bulged a perfectly good Kimber barrel years ago. To anyone new, if you drop the hammer (or striker) and you don't go bang...CHECK YOUR BARREL.

Any propellant has the potential to be dangerous, however you define that word, it is the operator that determines the outcome.

One of the toughest concepts for new reloaders to understand is the "burn rate" of powders and how that makes powders appropriate or not for different calibers.  I've always reserved Red Dot, and the other Dots, for shotgun reloading due to the very reason you point out.  Shotgun reloaders have much bigger "throats" to drop powder into shotgun shells, so the "bridging" you describe usually isn't a problem.  As for Titegroup, most of the Steel and USPSA shooters in my area (Central Florida) use Titegroup for our 9mm competition loads.  Good job!

Back in the day when I was handholding I would sit there watching TV and drinking beer and smoking cigarettes and I almost exclusively used accurate no 2 but I also had pyrodex for my black powder guns and I never had a problem. No flashes or fires, nothing. Looking back I was the dumbest person alive and I'm lucky to be alive. You could learn a lot from a dummy, don't do what I did. I also used a loading block and only did 50 rounds at a time so I would charge each case from my power measure and not with a charging die which eliminated the chance of double charging. Also I would weigh each round before using the seating die ai also recommend checking at least one in every 10 rounds to verify the accuracy of your power measure because it can vary enough to overcharge especially if you're loading at the highest charge for the powder. Accurate provides an excellent book for free that tells you what the minimum and maximum charge for each round and projectile type you're working with. Along with Lee complete loading kit they turn rocket science into childs play. But can't stress enough to NOT drink, smoke, or have distractions when handloading.

Please note that Red Dot wasn't designed for pistol loads.  It was designed for shotgun loads.  I worked at the Kenvil plant for 10 years, until just shortly before it closed.

Funny thing happened to me today. I clicked on a gunpowder YouTube video and a 3 min commercial for some stupid earbuds popped up.

now that in a old timer  ,old timers used to take cotton and cream of wheat to fill I air gaps . enhancing accuracy.  I still do that especially on my ultra reduced center fire pistol and rifle rounds. I've used the single presses over 45years  even if I just put powder in case I still look in it to make sure . you can't think of to many safely habits when reloading. papa wishing you well 😊

I really enjoyed your video. I began reloading on March 28, 1971, just about seven weeks before I turned 13 years old. I've kept all my reloading logbooks and since then, I've stuffed about 1.2 million cases with powder and bullets, so I feel like I've got ample experience. I didn't agree with your warnings on No. 2 initially, but I don't reload on a progressive rig. Where handgun cartridges are concerned,  I "batch" load by sizing and flaring a sizable number of cleaned cases and then proceed to prime them with an RCBS hand priming tool. I put the cases away to await the time I will charge them and seat bullets. I charge 100 cases at a time with my RCBS Uniflow powder measure and I can visually inspect each case. Anything that looks askew gets pulled. I'll pour the charge onto my scale to make double certain it's not over- or under-charged (I also randomly check charges with my scale throughout each reloading session, but I have to admit that only two or three times has my Uniflow powder measure ever gotten "screwy" on me during a loading session). My method of loading isn't as slow as you'd think. I can load 200-225 rounds per hour working at a leisurely pace, and at the same time, every case gets at least two more visual AND tactile inspections as I finish my loading process. Trust me, my ammunition is absolutely top notch as far as quality is concerned, and the consistency is unsurpassed.

I've tried progressive loading, and still have a Dillon 500 progressive loading setup, but I'm simply not comfortable with all that shit going on ALL AT ONCE. I am fanatical about case inspection and I have to give up three chances to individually see and handle each case as closely as I'd like with a progressive rig. And with my routine, my loads routinely deliver as little as 15 fps in variance from slowest-to-fastest in terms of velocity. I attribute this to the fact that I'm better able to load with more precise consistency than I can with any progressive rig on the market. (And I've considered buying newer, more high-tech setups since I put my Dillon aside. They just don't give me the maniacal amount of control I want.

As far as Red Dot is concerned, I wholeheartedly agree. That shit can be dangerous unless you're an observational fanatic like me. However, I gave up on Unique for the same reasons you mentioned. It's filthy, nasty and dirty. And it's a coarse-grained powder. And that's another thing. I avoid ALL coarse grained powders like the plague, I don't care how clean or consistent they may burn. They don't meter worth shit. I love fine grained powders like No. 2 because they meter with mind-numbing consistency. I used to enjoy loading with Hodgdon's HP-38 (which is identical to Winchester 231). However, it's not a finely grained as No. 2 (or No. 5 for that matter), and with their fast burning characteristics, I gave up on them because of pressure concerns when loading with those powders.

Here's an interesting and entertaining story about Bullseye and Unique powders. It used to be said that Bullseye was nothing more than what they would sweep up off the floor when the powder mill at the Hercules Company was producing Unique powder. It had some "weight" behind it because Bullseye is such a faster burning powder than Unique. However, Bullseye (then produced in two "flavors:" Bullseye #1 and Bullseye #2) was developed in 1898. Unique didn't come along until 1900. And if you inspect the two powders visually, there's no way Bullseye could be the result of sweeping up the floor during Unique powder production! (My source for this information is from "The Complete Guide to Reloading," 1st Edition, 1937 by Philip B. Sharp, the "co-inventor" of the .357 Magnum. And no, my book is not for sale.

I'm subscribing to your channel because I like your style, plus the fact you're one of the few truly intelligent, knowledgeable reloaders I'd consider listening to on this platform.

By the way, I'm 66 years old now and still average shooting about 1,000 rounds per month. I'm slowing down in my old age.

Years ago, a gunsmith showed me a 30-30 Marlin that the owner used a full charge of Red Dot instead of the correct rifle powder, I think he said was supposed to be Reloader # 7. the barrel had split and touched off the rounds in the magazine. He lost his hand, btw. Gunsmith noted that the guy's life was probably been saved by the strong Marlin action.