In Japan, car maintenance, including engine oil changes, is a process characterized by extreme precision, efficiency and a strong focus on preventive maintenance. Here's how this process typically goes in Japan:
1. The culture of "Shaken" and preventive maintenance
In Japan there is a strict periodic inspection system called Shaken. Because the requirements for this inspection are very high, Japanese car owners are used to keeping their vehicles in top condition. Oil changes are therefore often done more often than in many Western countries; many Japanese maintain an interval of every 5,000 kilometers or every six months.
2. The method: How they do it
The methodology in Japanese garages (from official dealers to specialized 'Auto-Bacs' stores) is highly standardized:

The "Gravity Drain" method: The most commonly used method is draining via the sump plug at the bottom of the engine. This is considered the most effective way to remove all old oil and any sediment from the crankcase.
Use of quality oil: Japanese mechanics attach great importance to the manufacturer's specifications. They almost exclusively use high-quality, low-viscosity synthetic oils (such as 0W-20 or 5W-30), which are specifically designed for modern, efficient Japanese engines.
Replacement of the gasket: The copper or aluminum ring (the sump plug gasket) is replaced as standard in Japan with every oil change. This is a small action, but it is a permanent part of their protocol to prevent leaks.
Oil and air filter: It is standard in Japan to also replace the oil filter with every oil change. The air filter is often also checked and replaced immediately if necessary, because it is believed in Japan that a clean engine "breathes" and therefore drives more economically.

3. Where do they have it done?
There are three main types of oil changes in Japan:

1. The Dealer (ディーラー - Diira): The most reliable, but also most expensive option. Here we work according to strict factory protocols and the maintenance history is kept digitally.
2. Auto-Bacs of Yellow Hat: These are huge "automotive superstores". They have a workshop where you can go without an appointment (or with a short waiting time). They are very efficient, work with fixed prices and have a very transparent working method where the customer can often observe.
3. Gas stations: Many major gas stations in Japan have a small workshop where technicians change oil while you wait. This is very popular because of its convenience.

4. The "Japanese Approach" (Features)
What makes the Japanese method unique is the attention to detail:
Cleaning: After the oil change, the engine compartment is often briefly cleaned or wiped down.
Checklist: The mechanic always performs a visual inspection of other fluids (brake fluid, coolant) and tire pressure.
Documentation: The customer always receives a sticker in the corner of the windshield or a card in the glove compartment with the exact mileage and the date of the next scheduled change.

In summary: The Japanese method is based on strict adherence to intervals, the use of high-quality materials and a thorough inspection of the entire vehicle during the oil change. It is a process aimed at maximizing engine life, which is essential in a country where cars are often used intensively in heavy urban traffic.

i actually started using this exact oil change method a few years ago and my high mileage engine still runs perfectly quiet

I have never drained cold oil. I have always run the car for 10 minutes before dropping the oil. The moly additive makes sense and when I grew up in a cold part of the country, you always warmed up the engine in the morning before placing a load on the engine.. The last two make sense.

I don't run any kind of cleaner between changes. My 1976 Dodge 318 got changed when the oil began to look a bit dirty. With highway miles, that could be as much as 3500. With local start and stop with loads, more like 2300 or 2500. The inside of my engine had zero junk, sludge, etc. Just shiny, clean wet metal. I sold it when I left the States in 2014 with 325,000 miles. It ran like it was a year old. You may not be old enough for this news, but before multi-viscosity oils, when we lived in Maine, we used lighter oil in winter, and heavier oil in summer....

300,000 on my Chevy Cheyenne 350, I've been running 20w50 for 15 years,  all 4 seasons. As of today, it's been running great

I switched to 5w 30 for the summer in my 13 outback wich calls for 0w 20 recently.
1k miles in ive  noticed quieter cold starts and quicker to idle rpm.
It seems to be consuming less oil as well if not any.
No low oil level light coming on during highway speeds or inclines. It also sounds happier at idle when warm during a hot day.
May have possibly lost some mpgs but il trade that instead of hearing a brief dry run rattle and screaming rpm when cold start.
Definitely will switch back when the weather gets to freezing.
Apparently the Japanese manual calls for 5w 30 on the same engine , however due to epa mpg standards in the us its 0w20 recommend.
Also put the taller oil filter in.
142k miles , time will tell. 🎉

You hit the nail on the head! Very good

Fuel prices are just getting out of hand at this time.

Bonjour de la Martinique,
Très heureux de vous rencontrer et de vous écouter. Donc très instructif votre VDO.
MERCI BCP À TRÈS BIENTÔT.:hand-purple-blue-peace::hand-pink-waving:

I used to run a repair shop in the 1980s as an ASE certified auto tech. I have a direct injected, turbocharged vehicle and I use a heavier weight oil (5W-40) than my owner's manual recommends, according to European specs. I only do hot drains. I fill the filter with oil prior to starting. I crank the engine repeatedly without starting prior to actually starting on a new oil and filter to build up oil pressure. I run it for a few minutes to check for leaks. I never use a flush or additives because the inside of the engine is still shiny metal varnish free after 5 years/65K miles, and modern synthetic motor oils do not need additives. I also routinely crank the engine without starting twice at every cold start of the day. I've never had a fuel dilution problem and replacing a starter is easy and cheap. I had an old Ford police car that lasted 300K+ miles and my sister is still driving the Accord I gave to her, now with 250K miles. I also have a Lincoln MK VII with 200K miles that fires up noiselessly at every start. I'm not going to change what works!

Hey, I'm on a fixed income and I have to make this car last.

Thank you for your great professional presentations.

How you accelerate your car has a big effect on your oil change intervals. If you are racing your car you most likely want to visually check your oil frequently, while you are at it check your tire air pressure too. There many small things you can do yourself to keep your vehicles optimized. Notice the color of your oil when it's new. When it turns darker it is time to change the oil and filter. If you do it yourself you may spend less than $40 per 5 to 10 quart oil and filter change. Buy your oil at a discount from Walmart, Costco, etc. Purchase top rated oil and filters.
I use Cerma oil and OEM Ford filters for my 2003 Ranger 4.0 straight 6 SOHC (203,500 miles) and 2018 Mustang GT. Cerma is not available at Costco or Walmart.
What this video suggests will cost you more to have done by a mechanic.  Maybe you have time to do this yourself.  However, most Americans aren't looking to drive a car 600,000 miles. I've never used this precise method, sure warm the engine before changing the oil. You might find it will take a little more to get the filter free and now you are dealing with hot parts and oil, but you do remove more contaminants.
Over all your car is not a taxi and you aren't using a fleet mechanic. Watch a few more YouTube videos for a deeper understanding.

I've been doing this for 30 + years in all of my cars and trucks

You tune in and get a history lesson. You just know it's going to be a long haul. So you scroll, instead.

They have the cleanist taxi cabs in Japan. They cover the back seats with spotless white lines. Many street signs might remind you of being in the UK.

I’m gonna try to nutshell this the best I can only to say that I’m tired to see master factory trained on three lines
I agree with everything that you say where I hesitate as that people who have randomly or even regularly changed their engine oil decided to do this procedure on a high mileage engine could be a problem
The reason I say that is that sludge is bad right well not if it’s keeping packed in areas around rod bearings and main bearings keeping the old pressure up
And someone decides to do this new oil change method on an engine that hasn’t been maintained that way from the beginning may wash away all that sludge which could possibly radically increase all clearances in the next thing they know what’s that knocking sound I hear
Back around 1979 when I worked on Dotson’s before they were called Nissans our dealer managers told customers that if they ran full synthetic oil in their engines, it would ruin their engines. The reason why?
They’re mid to high mileage cars with random oil changes had a lot of sludge
So one day they decide to go from the regular old to full synthetic and it only took one that I heard about that synthetic old too good job cleared all the sludge out of the engine. All clearances radically changed, causing rock, rock and engine overhaul replaced I deeply respect what you do, but I just wanted to get my humble opinion. I’m not saying warn people, but I would be hesitant as I maintain five high mileage vehicles I would do this to mine. I’m old school change all every 3000 miles my house mileage vehicles at 200,000 factory untouched and add a can of BG oil edit and I also when I start them cold a let them warm up before I drive away, especially in the morning.

What I've heard a Japanese oil change is this:
1. Add a quart of oil.
2. Drive car for 20 minutes.
3. Drain hot. The extra quart is to help break up sludge and contaminants.
4. Put new oil filter on and new oil.
5. Drive another 20-40 minutes to mix oil.
6. Drain hot oil and put a second new filter on. Fill again with new oil. Then it's complete.
This sounds better and safer than a flush with a mild detergent. I know that much oil can be expensive but it should last at least 6000 miles so it would be the same as changing it normally every 3000. I saw a guy on Facebook do this himself and compared the oil and it visually did look cleanest when he did that extra change. Im honestly thinking about doing it to my Ford Ranger which is close to 200,000 miles. Maybe not everytime after that but im sure it could use that extra oil flush now.

Thank you.

I love Toyota but after only 21 years having to buy used parts because no one makes them.
Same with Ford after 18 years.

❤❤video great thanks you roy 😊😊