You had vacuum on the ported vacuum port because your throttle transition slots were exposed. You had the idle screw so far in to run at a normal idle speed due to the timing being off. That was evident by how much your idle speed increased by turning the distributor. Good vid.
I used a recurve kit and limiter plate in my mopar 383 distributor. What a difference in off the line power! I learned quick that the car manual timing setting is for and distributor springs (recurve ) is for the safest and most economical. Amy change to an engine , even a small change in a stock engine constitutes adjusting the timing. It doesn't have to be an internal change either. A different distributor is a must to adjust timing. The performance distributors come with different springs and ive read that its usually the heavier spring that should be swapped out to bring in all the timing at a lower rpm. Dont set it to factory, but to the way the car runs best I dont know what the previous owner did to my 71 383 because i bought it that way. I have 14 degrees in the distributor (set it this way by using a limiter plate). I put a lighter spring in (recurve it) so all the timing comes in at about 1800-2000 rpm. (The weights in the distributor sling out at 1800-2000 rpm. My initial timing at idle, is 20 degrees before top dead center. Thats a Total of 34 degrees overall timing. What a seat or the pants difference ! Im still learning about carburetor tuning so ill be tinkering with that to see if i get more improvement. Great video!
I like video just cause it's well done! It's not that highly modified. The cam may have a higher lift but from the idle it doesn't sound lumpy at all. Total timing should be 36 -38 degrees for a small block chevy. 40 -42 big block. Be careful. Looks like it's way to advanced. Shouldn't be starting that way. Thats a big flag, to much timing when it tries that hard to start. Good luck!
Thank you so much for this video. I couldn't for the life if me figure out why my 67 buick skylark 340 wouldnt run right. Shop manual said set ignition timing to 5°. After I did that, it would backfire out the carb, it would run like crap. I thought I had mechanical issues. Did this procedure and it's running amazing now. Sits at about 15°, smooth as glass now. I've only messed with new school. You explained what to do perfectly. Thank you!
It pings because you have too much mechanical advance in the distributor. Total advance = base + mechanical. If you increase the amount of manifold vacuum, those Vette brakes will have a much better pedal. Good luck.
I use the vacuum gauge to set my timing. I move the distributor until I achieve my highest vacuum reading. I turn off my motor and restart it again. If it starts up right away. I leave it. If it studders like his restart. The timing is to high. Lower timing down and restart the motor again. If it starts up with no studders, you are good to go. If it does studders, reduce timing even lower until it studders no more.
When using a vacc gauge do you have to ignore timing marks on the crankshaft pulley is that right With my 289 standard if I use 12 degrees I’m slightly under when I turn the distributor and use vacc gauge I can get 20 tighten down check with timing light and I’m about 15 mil forward of the 12 degrees is this ok
Tuning with a vacuum gauge
Fun with cars - mostly Corvettes
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Tuning my 74 Corvette with a vacuum gauge after rebuilding the carburetor.