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PSA: Dont drink resin. (You never know who's watching this)

Gotta start that trend of edible resin. Resin you can snack on the failed prints.

Resin manufacturer here: in the early days high detail resin were somewhat justified as they used pigments to block light and prevent overcuring with cheaper base resins and photoinitiators. But nowadays any Quality resin will give you the max detail a given machine can fabricate. if the manufacturer uses a good base resin and high quality photoinitiator ,you can expect the max amount of details once you dialed in the settings for your machine.
Great job on comparing the models.
fyi: i make professional engineering Resin, might also be interesting for Wargaming because of its durability. edit:spelling

Thank You! Honestly the undercoating is such an important step for making comparisons. So many channels just look at the darker tinted 8k resin and go 'oh yeah thats better'.
10/10 mate, keep em coming.

My only criticism is the WarGamer resin promo with water washable been remarked as a positive thing. It's 100% a horrible thing, as everyone, manufacturers, users, power users, commercial, when using water washable resins.. Pour that horrible toxic gunk straight into the drains and do not treat it or dispose of it correctly. This is because it literally tells you on the packaging, and the promo videos, and in FAR too many "reviewers" videos that you can use things like running water under a tap, etc.. The resin remains Toxic to Aquatic life in its uncured state, and itsn't filtered by waste water filtration systems.

Other than that, thanks for making an awesome video, I'll definitely be sharing this whenever it's relevant to guide people away from stupid mistakes. This is something I've had to repeatedly explain to new users in forums, and it gets a little bit irritating that the crappy marketing tactics work so effectively, and hard to make people unlearn, same with teh KKK's that mean naff all to do with the actual size or quality of a printer etc

Keep up the awesome and gruelling work, it's appreciated

THANKYOU! for doing a comparison of models AFTER they have a coat of paint to eliminate differences due to transparency/colour!

Good science there. Controlled as many variables as possible.  This makes me happy I chose Sunlu ABS like!

Great review!  You have exposed a harsh truth, most of these resins are probably manufactured in the same two factories in Shenzhen with materials sourced from a single supplier in Guangzhou China.  The same is true for most consumer goods today.  The brand names differ but the manufactures are the same, the only variability is in quality of materials used and quality inspection regimes specified by the wholesale customer.  Keep up the fine work.

as someone from a colder climate, I use the chitubox heater. It works fine, the controls are a bit weird but it works. You also get ( or used to) a chitubox license with it.
Awesome freaking tests man! really nice to see and especially nice to see you sharing the proof photo's with the webapp. I'm glad to know that I haven't bought into the marketing BS.
The smell index is is appriciated. I got a very sensitive nose to chemical smells so I'm glad I got SUNLU abs-like. Haven't used it yet, but I'm hopefull.

Thank you for this detailed comparison, which confirms my suspicion that 12K resins are marketing bullshit. When I ordered my first "12k" resin from Siraya Tech for my first resin printer, I received "8k" resin instead. When I complained to customer service, they told me it was an old batch that hadn't yet received the new packaging, but it was the same thing. So there's no even hiding the fact that there's no difference between the resolutions.

absolutely the best 3d printing channel going

Thanks for the shout-out 🤘🤘

Great video! Said it before and will say it again, I've definitely found the best resin for minis is Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey. It's plenty tough for wargaming purposes, prints really fast, is VERY forgiving to print with and has beautiful details. I've switched over to it after I found other resins getting weirdly gummed up details on the support-facing side of parts. Also, whilst not quite as tough as some resins out there, it's also quite resistant to warping.

I like the heavy metal intro haha. I thought you were going to say "fuck it" and neck a full bottle of resin down your throat and then throw the empty bottle at the wall haha.

This is extremely helpful, particularly for those of us who are extremely budget conscious, yet still want good looking miniatures. The priming step is a great idea for ensuring all things at the end are equal.

You need a palate cleanser in between taste tests. Not doing so causes the flavor to be detected differently, thus nullifying the results.

Great video.  Not sure if anyone else has mentioned it in the comments, or you're already aware of it, but UVTools has an an exposure finder that should work with any printer. I have one set up with 10 different exposures at 0.2s intervals, will find two of the best and then print the Amera town and a few other test models at the best one and 0.1s either side. That 0.1s can make a difference, but not enough for details at arms length.

I've been using Sunlu ABS like with my Mars 3 Pro as it's cheap and reliable, won't switch unless I find something else better at the same price.

Thanks for providing the little website and photos, always appreciate the due diligence you do.
Also appreciate the shoutout to miniature horde, always on the lookout for more Aussie tabletop resources, it can be real hard to find shops that don't take the piss down here.

One of if not the best resin comparison video I've seen. Keep up the good work. Next bottle, Sunlu here I come!