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How to Choose Fabric for Trousers and Pants

Closet Core Patterns

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Making trousers that look professional and fit beautifully starts with choosing the right fabric, and it's often the difference between success and disappointment! In this comprehensive guide, Heather will walk you through everything you need to know about selecting fabrics for trouser making, from understanding bottom weights to mastering the balance between structure and drape.

What You'll Learn:

✂️ Bottom Weight Fabrics Explained - What they are and why they matter for trouser construction
📏 Structure vs. Drape vs. Weight - How to choose based on the silhouette you want
🧵 Traditional Options - Denim, twill, and canvas - when to use each type
💫 Lightweight Alternatives - Rayon twills, suiting fabrics, and when they work (and when they don't!)
👖 Pattern-Specific Recommendations - Which fabrics work best for Jenny, Mitchell, and Sasha patterns
🔍 Real Examples - Close-up looks at thrifted trousers showing different fabric weights in action

Bottom weight fabrics available at Core Fabrics: https://corefabricstore.com/collectio...

#TrouserMaking #SewingTutorial #FabricSelection #HandmadeWardrobe #SewingEducation #ClosetCorePatterns #CoreFabrics

Where to Find Us!
Closet Core Patterns
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Pinterest – https://www.pinterest.ca/closetcorepa...
Shop – https://closetcorepatterns.com/

Our Sister Brand
Core Fabrics
Instagram – Instagram: corefabrics
Shop – https://corefabricstore.com/

20 Comments

@Deadbeat-h7p 6 months ago

Twill, that's what I'm looking for, great thanks!

@andreeamorgociu2541 6 months ago

So insightful! Thank you!

@drhelenloney1426 11 months ago

Gosh, I’m learning so much!!

@janetmalwitz7491 11 months ago

Great info!

@kathyeastwood147 11 months ago

Thanks so much! So glad I watched this. Clearly I need to take the class 🤣.

@donnaschindlbeck7457 11 months ago

Very helpful video! I’m not very familiar with Closet Core patterns, I would have found it helpful to pop a picture of the patterns when you were talking about them. I’m glad you mentioned the GSM for many of the fabrics.

@leenb.7936 11 months ago

I’m “picking up the pieces” after my decision to ignore the tighter and tighter fit I got from my very nice lyocell/tencel twill pants. Indeed… those seams have been crying a little more each time until they gave out (luckily in a place and little enough of a tear so it’s not obvious or embarrassing). Bought the same pair of ready-made trousers in ecru and in a sort of army green so now I’ll mix and match a new pair out of those two. I wouldn’t have been able to wear them if I didn’t ignore the fact that I was wearing them meant-to-be-looser-fitting trousers as a tighter fit so I am not sad one bit but when making from scratch I will DEFINITELY account for more give! I love these types of experience lessons, wasn’t my own work that’s been affected and well, lesson learned ever so clearly ❤😇

@NaturallyLuvely 11 months ago

Thank you for this! Do you have a video like this for choosing a fabric for blazers?

@elizabethgardner6832 2 months ago

I've made the Pietra pants out of a medium weight linen/cotton blend and that has worked out well. I had a bit of an issue when I made the Pietra shorts out of a lighter weight relatively looser weave linen fabric. The way I did the side seams where the elastic meets the seam was a bit too bulky. So I redid it. After that the fabric near the seam on one side seemed to pull apart and shred a bit. I'm not sure if it was the weight of the fabric, the looseness of the weave, or I just did something wrong. If I do the shorts again out of a similar fabric, I'll probably add the side zipper. I don't have a huge difference anymore between my waist and hips (8 inches now instead of 12 inches), but pulling them on over my hips seems to strain the fabric a bit.

The other issue is that I'm a bit afraid of sewing with super heavy weight fabric. I'm not always sure if my machine can handle it. A denim needle helps but the heavier fabrics still make me nervous.

@drhelenloney1426 11 months ago

Really helpful video, sadly came out 48 hours after I bought some cotton/linen/ramie blend for some pants, but probably will work…😊

@elizabethhyer4008 7 months ago

I just want to add that if you make a pair of elastic waist trousers with a light fabric, it might be a good idea to interface the waistband casing first. I’ve had a few pairs of trousers and shorts where the top of the casing started to wear out eventually because of the friction with the elastic.

@ZeldaSews 11 months ago

Hello! This was an awesome video! I do not wear pants, but I wanted to know what you had to say about pants!

@VintagePenny55 11 months ago

This was really helpful, thank you. But what is a 9 oz denim in metric terms? What would I be looking for in Australia?

@slapperorange 11 months ago

How about using a thicker wool fabric you’d use for coats? Would those have enough structure for a waistband?

@Oroko-h3v 5 months ago

Fabric name

@stephaniepaterson6340 11 months ago

Any suggestions for pietra? No matter what I sew them in they look great from the front…and like a nappy from the back! I can’t follow your add a zip video; do I take fabric out? There is so much bunched at the back, I’m so, so disappointed

@M.R-g3b 11 months ago

This is a great video, thanks! I have a pair of Pietra pants made from denim - sadly this fabric is not a good choice as there is too much fabric at the back with the elastic. They are beautifully sewn, with top stitching, so I'm wondering how I can rescue them. Any suggestions? Thanks.

@eileen310 11 months ago

Are you going to redraft the Sasha in your new size range? I am looking for a stretch pant pattern but the Sasha isn't in your normal size range!

@gmkim21 11 months ago

Thank you for the video! I'd love to know what you're wearing because I love your outfit! I think the bottom is the Mitchell but what pattern did you use for the top, please?

@McSlobo 9 months ago

Just one correction: never use stretch fabrics. They suck and your trousers won't last very long. Make your trousers large enough to allow movement, that means around your buttocks, thigs and crotch.