I was told a long time ago by an older tech that you should actuate the switch/button/slider 50 times fully for each one. That's 50 times in each position. So far that policy has worked for me like 90% of the time; every so often there's a really dirty switch that needs more attention

It's used in electronic shops, my can lasted years.  Loved it on connectors, controls, etc.

Hello, I am a long time watcher and first time to leave a comment.  I am by no means anything close to being an expert on working on electronics.  When I wanted to make my first Deoxit purchase I was confused as to what to buy.  I called customer service at Deoxit and they told me that D5 should not be used on vintage equipment because of the solvents can be damaging (according to them)  They asked me how old was the item that I was working on.  I told them it was a Yamaha receiver from 1980.  They recommended that I use d100 and not d5.  I am not 100 % sure on this part but I think that they said that the contacts on the boards and components are not always gold plated on vintage equipment and that is why the solvents can be damaging.  I just wanted to mention that.  Again, I am only a novice, so if I am wrong nobody jump all over me but I would like to be corrected.  Thanks.
Doug

Hello Friend, I just wanted to let you know that I found your channel just a few days ago and watched your video about the restoration of your Marantz receiver. I just wanted you to know how much I appreciate the information you shared. I learned quite a few things from your instructions that I did not know, which will help me a lot with restoring, and repairing my own equipment. You have several more videos that I am definitely going to check out. I used to watch Blueglow electronics because he would work on vintage solid state  stereo equipment, but he started working on tube equipment and I stopped watching his channel. Then I found xraytonyb and I have learned some things from him as well. Unfortunately, he gets pretty technical with the schematics and I have trouble understanding him. I really do appreciate the fact that you explain things in a much more simple way and I fully understand you. I really hope you will continue sharing your knowledge of stereo repair here on your channel. I also hope you will continue to find vintage stereo equipment in need of repair, so you will be able to share the process you go through to troubleshoot and repair, whatever problems you run into. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing all your future videos about vintage stereo repair. Thanks again, and eep up the good work!

I remember back in the day there was two types of Deoxit Plain and Gold. Now my head hurts.

Appreciate the clarification 👍 The Doxit cans are a serious graphic design fail. They've crammed SO MUCH text into a small space that it's really hard to find the important info.

so my head shaver developed corrosion at its base (after 2.5 years of use) and stopped charging. Was about to buy new latest n greatest version, but came across this Deoxit contact cleaner while searching online. Was confused as there are many contact cleaners on the market, even the WD40 version. But none apart from the Deoxit stated that it "dissolves corrosion." So decided to give it a shot. Sprayed the base charger and its cable, and played with inserting/removal of cable onto base. Let it dry out for couple of hours. Wired it up, and hooohah the base started charging again.

Thanks!  I've been waiting for someone to make a clear and brief video on this topic

Most honest, genuine, to the point, video. THank you.

Tony never provided any evidence for his claims, but everybody repeats them now. Deoxit FaderGrease is an important product to increase the physical resistance in the fader type controls. Nobody really talks about it though as you have to disassemble faders to apply it.

Awesome x awesome video. And you are so right, there are different cleaners/lubricates for different purposes. When I used, not knowing, contact cleaner, on my studio mixer sliders, they sound like scratchy noise, and it got worse as time went on. But using the Deoxit Fader F5, what a difference no more scratchy noises and I think the sound quality is better.
Oh, here is a tip. If you miss and spray the Fader F5 on your mixer or any other gear it leaves a little residue. So just spray a little Fader F5 on a rag and you can wipe it away.

Thanks for this video. I bought spray cans of F5 and D5, and a tiny tube of 100% Deoxit to clean up my Marantz 2250B. The F5 Did not work on the volume pot, but the 100% liquid work perfectly.

Much appreciated, I was confused as to which one to buy, and eventually bought D5.

The Gold works very well on audio connectors. I also had several radio broadcast mix consoles that had on/off lamps for each channel and the bulbs didn't fit very tightly so would often go out just from poor contact. The Red didn't do a thing for them but the gold seemed to enhance the contact and kept the lights on.

I still have a half of a 16oz bottle of the original Cramolin. The red stuff, works great. And protects the surface also. Been using it for Decades.

Hello. How do you know if there is carbon in the pots?

Thank you for your video.  I'm about to clean my NAD 7240 PE Receiver that's about 38 years old and needs some TLC. I just scored a new condition tape deck from Goodwill to sustain the old tape collection and still love vintage gear and sound.

Nice overview.  Great vid.  Well explained!  Thanks!!

After using it for a few years now, both d5 and f5 , I have concluded that using the least amount possible  to complete the task is key.  F5 results on any sliders was nowhere near as good as I expected as it flushes the old damping grease the feel becomes rough and unpleasant. It is good on potentiometers. F5 fader lube is a bit of an after thought and  depending on how many bands you have in your eq is not a viable option.

Thank you for making this video!  This information should not be so hard to find!