Well I was gonna pick that apart but for facing off small parts,, quick simple jobs especially with brass or aluminum I’ll definitely keep that in mind and can see myself actually going to same thing sometime.. 👍
Well, I for one really enjoyed your video. Good material and good hacks. Thank you for taking the time and effort to show these hacks. I like the hole saw idea. I will be giving it a try. Cheers!
Hi I was thinking along the hole saw as face mill last week so much cheaper. Yet I think you're the first to break thru this idea. Also never know one needs to tune up before milling. Wonder you can elaborate clearer the face and clearance angle to grind. Thanks so much, now I can own a cheap face mill instead of spending on real stuff!
I enjoyed the Video 👍 that’s a Great way to save some Money. For being a Hobby, I don’t need a Mirror Finish. It looks like this Hole Saw conversion works good enough for most of the things I am attempting. Just picked up Machining not too long ago, so after the Price of the Machines and all the other things that go with it. Being able to save a little here and there helps a lot. Thanks for Posting.
Well Ive just watched this thru again[I know I need to get a grip] and thought to comment again but you are giving out what we call “ warts’n’all’ advice here and its very enjoyable watching. Also I see your a good boy and wash behind your ears 16.05 like your mother taught you. 😎👍Kind Regards Stuart Bell from England.
Greetings Bob! I bought a Round Column Drill-Mill about 15 years ago brand new and it has been a blessing owning it. Mine is a Harbor Freight General Machine brand that must have been a limitied edition as it has a power downfeed gearbox on the right side of the head.
Interesting use of a hole saw. Re centering the saw in the 4-jaw: Because you have the arbor sticking out you could just put the hole saw in the tailstock drill chuck and use that to center the saw in the chuck and rotate the chuck to find which jaw will hit the teeth.
You might try putting a Rod in the Hole Saw, Tightening the Allen and Machining the Shaft that way. If it will hold, it seems like it would save a lot of Time getting it Zeroed in the Chuck. You probably already tried this but I thought I would mention it.
Okay Bob...you can't start a video with a lie and expect people to listen! You said something about "a few minutes"... :) That being said...I learned a lot!
I have the same ER25 on my RF31 but never use a chuck for drill bits since the extended length increases runout, just use the collets alone. You can buy a face mill on banggood for $15, 10 inserts are $6 on ebay: https://www.banggood.com/4-Flute-400R-50mm-22-Face-End-Mill-Endmill-Facing-CNC-Milling-Cutter-p-972285.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN
It's not the taper that keeps the R8 shank from spinning as a Morse taper does, rather it's the groove in the the side of the shank that locks on to a nib inside the spindle. The taper might help, but it's the keyed groove and nib that really holds it.
Nice tips. The big problem with a collet chuck is you lose a lot of Z height, however, the convenience for most projects makes it worth it, I have an ER32 collet chuck on my round column mill drill and an ER40 collet chuck on my knee mill and an ER20 on my little Sherline CNC mill. You can get a 50mm face mill with R8 holder and carbide inserts for much less than 50 bucks from our friends in China. Another option is to make a fly cutter from scrap and grind or use a left-hand HHS lathe tool. I've made several in different sizes up to a 3 inch that will swing 5 inches with the tool bit extended. What lathe do you have it looks like a South Bend 10 inch? Thanks for the video!
Shop Hacks: Round Column Mill edition
The Buildist
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Advice and ideas that I've found for getting the most out of a round column mill/drill