I use the sewn prusik because I can confidently use it as a PAS when rapping, but I really appreciate your nuanced perspective recognizing that there are different strokes for different folks.

Nicely done. I appreciate the reflective conversation. 👏👏👏

There is a lot to consider here. First, do you need a prusik to handle ~10 kN? If not, then a rated prusik may not be that important. In a pinch, one could use a boot lace and feel just as secure with an extended abseil or improvised jumar because neither case normally requires strength against shock loading. One of the advantages of a sewn prusik or third hand is that they are more compact on the harness; a real concern. They are also easier to manage when in use because the knot can be rather intrusive as you are tying the prusik knot. Finally, the sewn versions look cleaner, which inspires confidence, especially for guides; the value of appearance cannot be denied.
For me, I am a bit of a DIY nut, so a tied 6mm prusik is what I have on my rack.
These are great videos! Thank you for putting them together.

I use the cheapo cord method. It taught me how to tie a double fisherman’s which is a bonus. Brand new cord is a bit crap but after while they get a bit fuzzier and grab nicely.

Another unbiased review. Excellent. Well done JB👍

the main thing i like about the about the hollowblock is that it works well if i'm abseiling a dedicated RAD line or something super skinny.  They're also much more heat resistant if you're doing a lot of abseils in a day.  I wish the simmonds option was more available in the states, TBH, because having extra anchor options seems better.

An advantage of an aramid prusik cord is that it has a much higher melting point (over 500C). Nylon cord will melt quickly (melting point 220C) if your prusik cord slips down the rope when weighted.

I think the best of both would be to buy aramid cord by the meter (apart from Edelrid, there are a bunch of companies who sell 5.5-6mm technical cord, like Beal, Edelweiss, etc.), and use that to tie your own. You get 15-ish kN for little money (I'm not sure excactly how much weaker aramid gets by tieing a knot in it, NBS is ~18-20kN, so I'd hope it does 15 after the knot).

Thanks for the relaxed video. As you may know, I don't like distractive effects in educational videos.

When you plan to descent by breaking the hitch under load  in an MRS or SRS configuration (as used by arborists),  Aramids are the way to go.  Note that the UV-resistance of most aramids (especially Kevlar)  is not so good. Arborists use thicker ropes  mostly (12..13 mm), and can therefore use thicker prusik/hitch cord (8...10 mm, with sewn eyes mostly) to reduce wear.  

When you only use the hitch for prusiking, nylon (PA) is fine.  I make the loops myself (double fisherman's bend) using 7 mm thick PA or PES cord on 10.5 mm or somewhat thicker rope.   When the load is on 4 rope strands (as with the Autoblock / French Prusik) I use 6 or 7 mm cord.  Except in case of an emergency I do not descent by breaking the hitch. When in a work positioning application (MRS) I do break the hitch to reposition. The load is then well below body weight.

If you're desperate to something a little stronger/more rated than accessory cord for your self tied loops, Petzl RadLine is 6mm, kernmantle constructed with a rough, grippy sheath, rated to 12kN (so should approach 20 in a loop) and costs less than 2 quid per foot.

Seems to tick a lot of boxes, has anyone tried using it for prussiks?

Edelrid Powerloc 6mm a £1 a metre at Cotswold Outdoors 👍

i've always just used 5mm kevlar rope i got cheep as  it was a rope end, off cut off rope i got for my contender sailing dinghy kicking strap got a few off them of diferant lengths, i have got some edilrid arimid cord slings  i was oin to see if i could use them insted but think there too stiff so dont know how they will do, as i havent a clew how old the kevelar ones are but woundnt be suprised if there 15 to 20 years old now!!

In the states the Hollow Block is ubiquitous. Always used to use cord tied with double fisherman's. Then I switched to Hollow Block, not sure why but I like it. I think it has a supple feel that can't be beat. Maybe that's it.

Edelrid aramid sling works as prusik.

I’ve been using Beal jammies, but have found they get core shot really quickly from being racked on a carabiner. I’ve heard that can be avoided by cutting back the plastic around the sewn section, but if I’m going to start modifying a rated piece of kit to get more use out of it, it does beg the question ‘what’s the point in having a rated piece of kit in the first place.’ Going to just go back to standard prussiks.

I have the Beal Jammy but stopped using it while doing a rock rescue course since it was way less scure than 5 mm cord in autoblock when prusic climbing due to the stiffness. Since I´m a nerd I still want to try the hollow block, but I feel that acessory cord is fine.

How do you wrap your prusik onto your screwgate looks tidy?

Thinking of getting a Beal Jammy but I'm not sure on whether to go for the 50cm or 60cm one. Any recomendations? I have used home made prusicks before, but I am not sure if the sewed part will make a difference when handling it.

I've got the one from Simond. 3 wraps of autoblock on two strands of 10mm rope, feel a bit too loose (but still grabs) and 4 wraps are a bit too grabby. Will see what's better in real life applications

anyone got any experience with the short Beal jammy? bought the shortest one. currently wrapping it UP the rope its either too grabby or not grabby enough with one wrap difference. Haven't played around with it loads just tried to use it a few times and got frustrated.