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We put a $600 subwoofer next to a $1,200 one and measured sustained output, not just the number on the box. Full breakdown above if you want to see all seven. Which watt rating fooled you the most? 👇

There's  no horn driven base speaker that I've ever seen .

Living on that seemingly designed by committee featureless estate (as oft seen on Dreammedia) you can see why home theatre is a welcome escape.

Ordered a Rythmik. Hope I get it before the end of the year. . . 😢

Muy interesante tus publicaciones. Viendo tu canal desde Caracas Venezuela. Me suscribo 👍

gr8 vid!!!

I completely agree!

I’ve preached the same for the previous 2-3 decades.

Heard good thing's about SVS subs and now more good about them in this video. If i was looking for a sub I'd look for their product's.

I have an older JBL PB 12 sub and it goes down pretty deep.

If you're willing to spend a bit go for a sub with THX certification. The testing is absolutely rigorous, only the very best performers get the certification. The testing and research is done for you, easy way to narrow the field

Pro Audio Bassboss SV9 and Bassboss BB15 subwoofer ( 2500 watts)  paired with high end audio gear makes for an awesome home audio setup

Of the shelf they all fail. Most plate amp's used are total garbage (switching power supplies even more so), DSP and digital crossovers do help but not if paird with really bad ADC and that's where most do cut the cost. DIN RMS is still golden standard not short term burst (which are there only for a sakes of tolerance loads). Almost all port's are done wrong, all in Hi-Fi. They are done to mimic what woofer can't tuch instead as reinforcement where it starts to struggle and under the port frequency range ain't useful at all as THD skyrocket there. All do Yamaha still use it's A-B class and iron core transformers (expect in top new one's) but the flare port is badly done so a big no! DIY close enclosure at least 15" one's are way to go either pared with Brunos based H class designs or good PA. Stratosphere performance ain't goal to start with regarding power amplifier but a deacent performing one and increasing noise with frequency ain't a problem, cheap class D is fine really. You need to learn how to optimise between driver FS and where impedance and phase meets so that you don't try to push it into X max when you don't have to, when done properly it even can stay time coherent or close to it (6 ms or onder or up to 10 as well everything is matter of compromise). If you want it to last you don't choose one's that deep under 3 Ohms no mater of posible up to 3 dB penalty it brings and you choose average sensitive ones (about 86 dB at 1 m) or little more sensitive ones in order to compensate. That way you might get somewhere with deacent money.

It’s pronounced “base” and not “bass.”

REL Sub's! enough said!!