Right when I was binging through MacLeod videos and picking up my own copy of "9 out of ten climbers" from mail, Dave is setting me up with a hangboard routine. What a time to be alive! :)

I've enjoyed this video! I made my own timer using Seconds Pro so I could zone out to music or podcasts. For anyone who just wants the timing breakdowns:
30m MacLeod Hangboard Routine
WARMUP
Jug
10s h
1m r
10s h
1m r
5-6 pullups
1m r
5-6 pullups
1m r

21mm
10s chisel
1m r
10s half crimp
1m r
10s 3-finger-drag
1m r

14mm
10s half crimp
2m r

WORKING SETS: Weighted to failure @ 10 seconds
10s chisel
2m r
10s chisel
2m r
10s chisel
2m r

10s half crimp
2m r
10s half crimp
2m r
10s half crimp
2m r

10s 3-finger drag
2m r
10s 3-finger drag
2m r
10s 3-finger drag
1m r

Jug
5-6 pullups

Thanks Dave MacLeod!

No offense to Tom Randall’s six minute abs, but this is my favorite “follow along” workout. In fact, it’s now my favorite training video period. Appreciate the stories during the tests and all the effort it must have take to create this. Truly visionary! Thanks!

Dave is seriously my favorite YouTuber. Wish he were my dad with the supportive presence he brings to his content. Plus he has waaaaaaaay cooler stories

This is by far the most cohesive and engaging video. I was researching protocols and just ended up doing a hangboard session with you, thank you! <3

Brilliant. Would LOVE a whole series of hangboard workouts. Love the follow-along format. Thanks!

This is hands down the best hang boarding video out there

I just finished the workout following along and I just want to say a massive thank you for all of the effort that went into writing shooting and editing this video. I will surely return to watch it more often

Hi Dave, I don't know if you've seen it but I recently heard the nugget climbing podcast episode Dan Varian. He really spoke about individual testing of fingers and activating "lazy" fingers in key grip types and stuff.

If you've not heard it I would really recommend, and if you have hearing your take or analysis on the theory stuff would be super interesting.

Thanks for quality content as always !!

I’ve been following this for a few months now.
Would love to see an advanced hangboard follow along!

I bought a very similar fingerboard and started doing this routine in the morning and climbing same day late afternoon, 3 days per week. Though I couldn't quite match the standard of hangs- maybe only around 6 seconds without any added weight on a 23mm edge, I still managed to increase my grade at the climbing wall within a week. It even felt relatively easy! I can't thank you enough 🙂

Amazing format, would love to see more like this. It was just good fun following along and getting some great climbing stories in-between.

As comprehensive as you'd expect. I really appreciate Dave laying out the pretty much complete path to maximising every aspect of climbing performance  on the internet, for free.

Best video on hangboarding I've seen. I'm a 63 year-old ex-bumbly/ nowadays mainly rambler and Dave has inspired me to get my unused fingerboard from the garage and install it in my dining room doorway :-)

Good soundtrack today! Good to see my current self-made plan is roughly similar to this 💪

The production value of this is outstanding! Having all the different camera angles showing off the board, the upcoming exercise, and your body position were very helpful. The examples of applying the training to real outdoor climbs was also very well done!

Absolutely unbelievable resource. I've done this like 10 times now and the little anecdotes are always such a nice little extra bit of motivation in between the sets. Actually crazy this is free on YouTube from one of a world class climber

Thank you so much Dave, I hope to start developing iron fingers like yours with this routine

Thanks Dave, really useful to me, hope to see you again in Ireland sometime in the future

Thank you for creating this very helpful content. The hang board kind of baffled me but after watching this I feel confident it will help me unlock my next level(s) in climbing!