Hi Henry, Another big leap forward, still admire your tenacity.
Love the G clamp approach for the top pin, definitely an easy option. IF you decide to remove the crossmember, please be aware that you will have to remove the steering rack first (or at least undo it) . The rack shaft runs up through the offside engine mounting bracket (Not the finest hour in the Abingdon design department IMO 🤔) Please don't forget my previous comments about shims under the rack. Make a note of which ones go where and it will make refitting a lot easier (I found out this little detail the hard way) Once the rack is removed the crossmember can be released by undoing the four large nuts in the engine bay. Be careful as it is surprisingly heavy. Why not remove the bump stops and let a local garage sand blast it for you? Trying to clean this up with wire brushes is a near impossible task due weird inaccessible shapes.
It's only necessary to remove the grease nipples from the kingpins if they are gummed up with solidified grease, and yes the angled one needs to be undone from the lower swivel pin housing if you decide to remove it.
Just one last observation is that you are using your torque wrench to undo stubborn nuts. This isn't recommended as it overloads the internal mechanism meaning the calibration will go wild out. You will definitely need extra leverage removing 40 years old fixings but a breaker bar is a better option for this.
Keep up the good work!

Hi Henry 🙋🏻‍♂️. Thx so much for posting this video. I’ve got all the bushes for this project and your video will help me so much.

Yes, take the front cross member off and replace the pads. I just did this and noticed a smoother ride.

Great video's, real dedication and you learn as you go, difficulty on the right side but applied your understanding on the left and it was so much easier. Please be careful when using a screwdriver for a job it was not intended for, you can easily push it into your hand, I speak from experience. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for this. Terrific progress. I recommend removing the subframe, cleaning the entire piece. repaint, wax oil, reassemble while off the car, bolt back in place after refurbishing everything. It took me an extra 3 days. for peace of mind, that's all you pay.

Looking good Henry! That damper looks a lot better than the other one. Too bad about the broken bolt. You can take the cross member off but you    Can clean it up quite well in situ.  Taking it off can get you into another set of issues. Check your manual well when reassembling the hubs. Putting the shims in and tightening correctly is important. PS I enjoyed the piano jazz!

Been waiting to see how you got the Stock front springs back in. But in comments it seems you are now messing with crossmember. Looking forward to re installation video.

I like your logo. I'm about to change my '80's bushings to poly, but with engine out, I read that a restraint under the floor jack and over the shock can provide the necessary influence to undo the control arms and free the spring, any thoughts?

any tips on getting sway bar bushes out?