In this step-by-step build, we create an open-frame filigree piece— perfect as a ring top, pendant, or statement earring. You’ll learn how to form a twisted-wire border, flatten 18g scrolls for graceful curls and negative space, add a fine-silver granulated center, and control heat so every touch-point solders cleanly. We finish by attaching a simple ring band on the back.

What you’ll learn:
Designing an open-frame filigree with balanced curls & negative space
Forming the outer frame with twisted 18g wire (any shape—oval, round, soft square)
Flattening 18g interior wires (hammer or rolling mill) for smooth, even scrolls
Fit & flow: making every element touch so solder will bridge (the “filigree puzzle”)
Pick-soldering sequence & heat control (where to aim, hard → medium → easy)
Anneal to a red glow, quench, pickle—when and why
Making a fine-silver granule with a flat base and setting a 5/16" disc center
Final assembly: tacking from the inside out, then soldering on a ring band (easy solder)

Materials & tools (my setup)
18g twisted sterling wire (outer border/bezel)
18g round sterling (interior curls), lightly hammered or rolled flat
Fine silver snippets for granulation + small disc (≈ 5/16")
Flux, hard/medium/easy solder (pick-soldering)
Torch, third hands/locking pliers, soldering board/screen
Hammer, small anvil/bench block, flush cutters, round/flat-nose pliers

Optional: rolling mill, shape templates, disc cutter & daps
Quench, pickle, liver of sulfur (optional patina)
Pre-made or hand-made ring band

Tips from the bench
Aim heat at the heavier element so solder flows toward the joint.
Keep curls low and flat—contact points are everything.
Work medium solder for the filigree, save easy for the ring band.
Embrace slight irregularity—it adds life to the filigree.

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