Congratulations on taking on this model. Even though it may look like a basic kit, it has quite a few details, which makes it more interesting than it first appears. Revell kits can sometimes have a few assembly issues, but overall they usually go together well, and I think this was a very good choice to start with. I do not know your channel, but from what I saw, I get the impression that this may be one of your first aircraft models. I say this with great respect and with the best intentions: when we share knowledge within the hobby, everyone learns and the community grows.

One piece of advice that I think could help you a lot is to follow the instruction manual as closely as possible. I also have this kit, and with this kind of model it is better not to jump ahead, because some parts can make the assembly more difficult if they are attached too early. Once the parts are glued, I recommend using proper modelling cement, the kind that slightly melts the plastic. It creates a cleaner and stronger bond, and in many cases it can help you avoid using too much filler or putty.

After gluing, an important step is sanding the seams. Ideally, this should be done gradually, using progressively finer sanding papers. With patience, believe me, you can make the joint almost disappear and make the model look like a single solid piece.

The painting stage is where I think you have the biggest opportunity for improvement. Aircraft, even war machines, have very delicate and sometimes even elegant lines. Paint was not only decorative; it also had a practical purpose, so it is worth trying to respect the finish of the real aircraft. In your case, the paint went on a bit too heavily, and that caused fine details such as panel lines, rivets and surface details to be lost.

For future models, the ideal approach would be to apply the paint with an airbrush in very thin layers. If you are painting with a brush, you can still achieve a good result, but it is better to thin the paint properly and apply several soft coats instead of one thick coat. I also recommend avoiding painting too many parts before assembly, because paint can interfere with the fit and cause assembly problems.

The canopy is usually masked with low-tack modelling tape. After that, it can be painted with an airbrush or, if done by hand, with a very fine brush such as a 10/0, using well-thinned paint. For clear parts, it is best to use white glue or a special glue for transparent parts. Avoid using superglue or cyanoacrylate on those pieces, because it can fog the clear plastic and ruin the finish.

Another important point is the decals. Before applying them, it is best to coat the entire aircraft with a glossy varnish, highly thinned, for example in an approximate ratio of 30% varnish and 70% thinner. Then let it dry properly, ideally for at least 24 hours. After that, apply the decals with a brush and decal softener, and let them dry for another 24 hours. This helps them blend better into the surface and prevents silvering.

Once the decals are in place, you can work on the panel liner and effects such as chipping, wear, dirt and oil stains. Here, the best advice is: less is more. It is very useful to check historical photographs of the real aircraft to see where dirt accumulated, where oil leaks appeared and which areas suffered the most wear. That will make the model look more realistic instead of simply “dirty at random.”

When those effects are finished, you can seal everything with a matte or semi-matte varnish, also highly thinned, for example in a ratio of 20% varnish and 80% thinner. Applying it in soft layers allows you to control the final finish better and decide how flat or satin you want it to look. The canopy masking should be removed only at the very end, once the entire painting and varnishing process is complete.

As an additional detail, I noticed that the ground-control radio antenna was missing: the cable that runs from the cockpit area to the tail fin. It is a small detail, but it adds a lot of realism. You can make it with stretched polystyrene or with nylon stocking thread. In that case, you can use a tiny amount of cyanoacrylate to attach it.

In summary, I think you made a great effort, and it shows. For a first model —or one of your first— it is great that you had the courage to take it on. The next step is to gradually improve your documentation, tools and techniques. You are on the right path: with patience, practice and the will to learn, you have everything it takes to become a great modeller.

Congratulations, and keep going!

Excellent build son 👍

Thanks  and suggestions for alternatives, thus saving me from dissapointment

i got this model as a beginner and this video helped me a lot so thank u!! amazing video and amazing result such beautiful painting u did🙏🙏

Cool model. 🛩

Nice new intro ! I like how you used the RLM74/75 on the tail it’s very creative and smart ,could you make a b17?

I've been building model fighter planes and tanks for 1 year and not long ago I got my first box of revell kits. I live in China Mainland so most of models I have are from Chinese or Japanese brands like hasegawa and Tamiya. Revell 1/72 scale plane kits are quite impressive, just like 'the other point of view' of a certain aircraft. The Me-262(Both single seat version and 2 seat version), P47M and FW190 with gliding bombs are perfect for a weekend builder like me. I would say I like revell now.

Looks great, really like the weathering.  Do you ever have issues with Tamiya lifting the previous layer of Tamiya when adding multiple coats?

It is reduced from an 1/48 kit, but actually may have more parts as the rudder and wing bulges are separate parts... Or maybe this one was first :D

congrats! It looks great!

Very nice work and awesome camouflage! How much time do you allow for paint drying in between coats? Really enjoyed this video and your new introduction! Take care and see you next time!

Do you use a primer for brush painting?

It’s a meh kit but good work, 72nd isn’t a easy scale imo. Very fiddly, fine detail and tight places to fill gaps. Made this look decent enough for the shelf good work Luca

one in my local hobby shop, i have really been wanting to make a ground breaking, atleast for myself milestone with a bf109, specifically a later war version, i had this kit before but was not really great imo, but it was my second kit ever, is it worth another shot?

Sehr gut gemacht Ich habe diese G 10 von Revell auch mal.gebaut Sie ist nicht der beste Bausatz in 1/72 aber auch nicht der Schlechteste und sehr gűnstig zu kriegen Bloss das Rumpfband stimmt nicht weil die angeblichen Me 109 G 10 beim JG 7 hat es nie gegeben da hat Revell einen Fehler gemacht und die Gelben Tragflächen Unterseiten gab es nur an der Ostfront alles in allem aber super gemacht Gratuliere ❤

In Europe it is a lot cheaper and better value for what you pay

Do yourself a favor and buy an airbrush and compressor. Your builds will look much better and it will save you a lot of time.

Mine flew itself into the bin. A truly garbage kit.

One of the worst kits ever!

Absolut desaster, kid. Back to reality. We all had to start somewhere. True.  But this is hard to watch. Take more time and care.