OpenTube

Interfacing, Underlining, Interlining, Oh My!

The Weaver Sews

15,922 views

A tutorial of when to interface, underline, and interline handwoven garments.

Other mentions:
2:06 Fusi Knit - see supplies link below
3:07 “Transferring Marks and Notations from Pattern to Fabric” Transferring Marks and Notations from Patt...
3:23 Sapporo Gravity-Fed Iron – the model that we currently have is the Sapporo SP-527, which is available on amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Sapporo-SA-SP5...
-Wawak sewing supplies has a Sapporo Gravity-Fed iron, SGB-900, which appears to be a newer model. That is available here: https://www.wawak.com/Pressing-Spotti...
3:23 Reliable Ironing Board – a 2 in 1 convertible ironing board. It can be found here: https://reliablecorporation.com/colle...
8:58 Texturized weft - see supplies link below
14:22 Sta-Form sew-in underlining – can be found here: https://www.fabricessentials.com/shop...
14:51 HGA; Handweaver’s Guild of America - https://weavespindye.org/
15:00 HGA Design Challenge; Convergence Tampa Bay 2008 – the finished ensemble referenced can be seen here: https://www.daryllancaster.com/challe...
19:32 Needle punch fleece – The brand mentioned in the video is Pellon’s Thermolam. This can be found in most commercial fabric stores.
21:16, 23:12 Handling grainlines and edge management: “Keeping the Cut Edges from Unraveling” Keeping the Cut Edges From Unraveling

Clothing seen in video:
2:00 Checked Mohair Walking Vest – made from the DLPC 600 Walking Vest and combined with the armhole from the 200 Jacket
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
-the draft for the yardage is available here: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/potpou...
11:00 Forest Fire – made from the DLPC 300 Swing Coat with an Inkle woven trim
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
11:28 LA Attitude – Made from a Butterick pattern, #5147
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
-the draft for the yardage is available here: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/supple...
12:17 Color Blocked Dress – made from a pattern by Neue Mode, #25010
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
13:51 Vibration – made from a Vogue Pattern, #V1329
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
14:39 Splash – made from a Vogue Pattern, #V2865
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
-the draft for the yardage is available here: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/splash...
-Made from the design challenge leftovers: see above for details
16:20 Autumn Patchwork Duster - made from the DLPC 200 Jacket combined with the 600 Walking Vest
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
-the draft for the yardage is available here: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/autumn...
17:50 Arctic Sky – made from a Burda Style Magazine, January 2008, #127
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
17:55 Noro Jacket – made from the DLPC 1800 Zippered Jacket
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
20:17 Confetti Vest – made from the DLPC 800 Vest with welt pocket variation
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
-The draft for the yardage is available here: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/confet...
-directions for the welt pocket variation can be found here: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/digita...

Links:
My Blog: https://weaversew.com/wordblog/

Pattern Collection: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/sewing...
-the jacket worn in the video is Noro Jacket; see above for details
-the jacket on the left mannequin is Winter Sunset Coat – made from a Vogue pattern, #2472
-View the finished garment here: https://daryllancaster.com/garment_ga...
-the draft for the yardage is available here: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/winter...
-the vest on the right mannequin is Confetti Vest; see above for details

Free directions for Pattern Collection: https://www.daryllancaster.com/Sewing...

Monographs detailing various techniques in both sewing and weaving:
-digital version: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/digita...

Supplies: https://www.weaversew.com/shop/suppli...

20 Comments

@cat911moose 4 years ago

I've been sewing for decades, weaving for a few years with the intent of making my own yardage, and just discovered your channel. What a treasure trove! Seriously, the fact that you share your years of knowledge is absolutely the best gift!

@lalalovengun 5 years ago

This tutorial is very underrated!!! why isn't it getting more views?? Great content!!! thanks for demystifying this for us!!

@shannakashdan1711 5 years ago

This was one of the most informative videos I have ever seen, It answered so many of my questions that I was too ignorant to know to ask. Thank you so much

@belindafranco960 4 years ago

I loved the way you explained. English is not my natural Language but I found a lot of beautiful words which let me understand every great idea. I consider this … poetry to sew. Thank you very much .
Of course now Im suscribed

@julianachandler2975 2 years ago

Great video. Stunning weaves and beautiful garments.

@deidrabenson361 2 years ago

Thanks so very much for sharing this important information!❤️❤️❤️

@silalaluatauetia7180 3 years ago

Thank you for this very important information!

@crittersintheyard3993 5 years ago

that light blue/pink dress is gorgeous

@isi98ani7 5 years ago

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I just heard about your channel on the professional weavers podcast and this is the first video I watched and already I'm stunned. Thank you, thank you.

@azjabour 5 years ago

Wow! What an awesome informative lesson. Well presented and extremely interesting. Thank you!

@shazl6415 3 years ago

Love your jacket

@antoniokinsey4041 2 years ago

Thank you:)

@mgannes 4 years ago

so excited to find this. i appreciate all your sharing.

@lauraleecreations3217 3 years ago

❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

@ohhzutalorsohzutalors6959 4 months ago

Here’s your literal, sentence-by-sentence translation into English:

---
Hello, I am so happy to have found your amazing YouTube channel!
Like everyone, I am afraid of ruining my handwoven fabrics 😅😅
Your video is great because I discovered it at exactly the right time—since I have woven some fancy tweed samples and am at the stage where I want to turn them into small pouches and cases by first applying fusible interfacing… but I have a concern: in my mix of threads, there are a few made of pure wool. Could this risk reacting by shrinking if I press a hot iron on it, even on the reverse side and protected by a thin fabric?

Are there any tips to reduce this risk? Or would it be better to use a sew-in interfacing instead?
Thanks a lot again for your super Channel !

@bibliotecaria2 5 years ago (edited)

Have you ever done flatlining? I’m exploring historical techniques, and I think that is one that would work for many handwoven fabrics.

@dianejoe8340 5 years ago

Would you treat the cut edges of your fabric ( straight stitch or serge) before you interline or after? I want to make a jacket using deflected doubleweave fabric.

@maureen6895 5 years ago

Thanks Daryl great details-look forward to trying these out. A question-I knitted a long wool sweater coat which is quite heavy and could use some support-any reference for using one of these products in that way? Thanks so much

@madrod2 5 years ago

In handwoven garments that you want to use in hot weather and not fuse, can you stabilize the seam all around with stay tape? I usual use fuse on stay tape on my knits at the shoulders and such but I was wondering if it would work in keeping a garment from growing to much. I live in a warm climate and I would like to find away besides redoing a stretched garment.

@cdvax11 5 years ago

Great video. I love what you said about the dress you made for Florida. I live in Florida. What interfacings and underlinings do you recommend for hot climates. I have found that the fusi-knit does not breathe and I end up walking around in a sauna...