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Metal and Art

Metal and Art

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Making a NAKIRI Knife with an Etched Pattern Using Electrochemical Etching!

In this video, I build a Japanese-style NAKIRI kitchen knife from scratch and apply a unique pattern to the blade using electrochemical etching. Below, I've laid out each stage of the process in detail.

▎Shaping the Blade

• Cut the blank from a circular saw blade. For the blade material, I used an old circular saw blade — it's high-quality tool steel. Using a pre-made template, I cut out the profile of the future knife.

• Ground it to its final shape on the belt grinder. On the belt grinder, I worked the blank, establishing the blade profile, the bevels, and the overall geometry of the future NAKIRI.

• Heat-treated the blade in the furnace. I heated the blade in the furnace to critical temperature and quenched it, followed by tempering. This gave the steel the necessary hardness and durability for a long-lasting cutting edge.

• Sanded it to 600 grit. I worked the blade through progressively finer abrasives, bringing the surface up to a 600-grit finish — the perfect foundation for applying the pattern.

▎Applying the Pattern Through Etching

• Painted the blade with a special coating. I applied a protective coating (resist), which serves as a mask for transferring and etching the pattern.

• Transferred the chosen pattern using tracing paper. Using tracing paper, I carefully transferred the selected design onto the painted surface of the blade.

• Scraped away the first layer of paint. Along the outline of the pattern, I removed the paint, exposing the metal in the areas to be etched first.

• Etched the pattern using electrochemical etching. I connected the blade to a power source and, using an electrolyte, carried out the first etching stage, deepening the exposed areas of the pattern.

• Scraped away the next layer of paint. I opened up the second level of the design to create a layered, three-dimensional image.

• Etched the second layer of the pattern. I repeated the electrochemical etching, achieving depth and relief in the image.

• Washed off the remaining paint. I completely removed the protective resist, revealing the finished etched pattern.

• Removed the resulting rust with a special solution. After etching, I treated the blade with a neutralizing solution, removing any residue and traces of oxidation.

▎Making the Handle

• Cut the handle components. I prepared the brass parts and the scales from Karelian birch.

• Ground the brass parts to their final shape on the grinder. I worked the brass bolsters and spacers, fitting them to the handle's construction.

• Stabilized the Karelian birch scales with a polymer compound. I impregnated the wood with polymer under pressure — this strengthened the material, protected it from moisture, and brought out the beauty of the grain.

• Drilled holes in the tang. I prepared the mounting holes for the pins.

• Mounted the brass parts. I glued the brass in place with epoxy and drove the brass pins into the drilled holes.

• Installed the stabilized scales. I glued the wooden scales on and secured them with pins for a solid connection.

• Gave the handle its finished look. I shaped the handle along its contour, refined the form, sanded it, and prepared it for the finish coat.

▎Finishing

• Applied a cold bluing solution to the blade. I treated the steel with a bluing solution to enhance the contrast of the pattern.

• Sanded the blade to bring out the pattern. I removed the bluing from the raised surfaces — this made the etched design bright and striking.

• Coated the blade with machine oil. I protected the metal from corrosion.

• Coated the handle with linseed oil. I saturated the wood, giving it depth of color and protection.

• Sharpened the knife. I honed a sharp cutting edge — the knife is now fully ready for use.

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