Good info, appreciate it. If you measure the depth of the kerf along with the other measurements you can get the wedge within a millimeter or so of the bottom. If you measure the final width of the wedge you used it'll probably be around 6mm ( 2mm each side, 1mm for the kerf plus 1mm squish). I use a hand plane to shape the wedge to the correct taper ( kerf depth - 1mm, gap and kerf at the top of the eye + 1mm) obviously it depends on what the wood is, but that's pretty close. As someone else commented, a drilled hole at the bottom of the kerf is a good idea as well, helps stop splitting.
Well...now I know how to put the wedge into a handle 🤪
I think I know where I might be able to source one, this dude I watch from time to time makes some super awesome handles.
Most of them I've seen have been with laminated palm swells and they look MINT. That dude must really put some care and passion into them for them to turn out so well.
Some great tips here. Something I like to do is drill a small hole and cut the kerf to it, this gives a little room for the very end of the kerf to curl into because I like the end very thin so it's easy to get in.
Btw nice early Mann Collins Homestead Michigan you have there. I have one from my moms grandfather which was my 1st axe, they're nothing special but don't seem to be all that common. I like the profile, the cheeks are still a bit convex but the bit is also on the thinner side. When I got mine it was on a short straight miners axe handle.
Awsome video really heplful . My take aways where to size up my thickness of the wedge and also give the tounge a bit room to expand aswell. And to mark the depths , kurf depth on the wedge to make sure it bottoms out . Ive only hung 2 axes as of yet but bith are still tight and secure . Ive have 2 nice heads now i want to hang and do t want to mess them up lol .barco head from wiskey river and a rusted fire axe that i cut the spike off of .
Great video. Thanks. Should the wood for the wedge be harder or software than the handle? I'll be making my handle from Pignut Hickory. Also, I noticed your wedge wasn't symmetrical. Apparently it doesn't matter but would a symmetrical wedge be better?
What is a good source for those needle injectors you use to inject linseed oil into the wedge gap and between the axe head and handle top before you pound the wedge in? I've seen cheaper versions but the one you used looked much better. What was your source for that product please.
I have a question but first I'd like to say thanks for the great content. I look forward to your videos. I appreciate the time and detail you put into these. Anyway, what brand of linseed oil do you use? In your videos it always looks like it adds such a nice amber tone to the wood. I've tried several brands and it goes on very clear and hardly achieves that amber tone I see on your stuff. I've tried mixing pigments and oil based stain/paints but it never quite works out without altering drying times and having inconsistent textures and streaks. Do you mix your own blend or is there a certain brand you use that had that amber tint. I've looked for colored linseed oil online and didnt come up with much.