put the chisel in the middle.

When all else fails, actually read the instructions.

I bought one soon after they released as well and it has allowed me to sharpen my plane blades into incredible tools that finally function like I see in all the videos. Flattening boards finally doesn’t feel like a chore due to fussy tool- now it’s just up to my skill 😂 or lack thereof… but I finally feel like I don’t have the hurdle of annoying tools!

I went down the exact same path and also bought the stop block. I'm pretty good at sharpening and do most things freehand. I bought the jig for skew blades and other things. I've used the jig and can say the design and build are very good and it works like it should. Simple and easy.

I got the KM sharpener.  I already had the Veritas MK two.  KM…. It’s so much better.  You are able to set the 30° position and clamp down your chisel without an argument or difficulty.  I used to set my digital angle finder on the chisel and try to tighten it down without the angle changing, and it never worked.  Jonathan Katz Moses has done a service with this new product.  I am grateful and happy with my purchase.

Ty for the authentic review.  It sincerely looks like one of the most reasonably priced KM tools (all quality, just a lot seem expensive).  I’ve got a Km stop block, it is really nice.  Was recently looking at moving back to Maui and realized I probably couldn’t afford a place with shop space, always enjoy seeing folks there “making it work”.  Aloha.

I just found this video, so I watched it, & have subscribed. I like your "low key" approach used on this video. I'm someone on the high side of 75, living in NH, who's made sawdust since I was a kid. I watch a lot of the Katz-Moses video but haven't yet bought any of his products.   I too was impressed when I saw his sharpening jig video. I would suggest you build another table saw cutoff jig so you can mount the K-M stop block on the top of its fence. In my opinion, having two cutoff jigs is better than having just one plus a wall ornament. (LOL) I think that K-M stop block is a precise piece of equipment & more versatile than the block of wood & clamp I now use. I'm now going to look for other of your videos.

I've just had my jig for a few days. It's really well made and fits my hand better that others I've used. The little piece that gives you a square reference that stays in place is very important and the build quality is excellent. Thanks Johnathan.

You want the tool to be somewhat centered which is why he has the neodymium square. The chisel you had was in pretty rough shape and may have been a 32deg chisel. It needed to be re-profiled which means taking off a lot of material. If you would have started with 150grit aluminum oxide paper, or a good 150 grit stone the re-profiling would have been much quicker for you.

Typically when you get to 600grit and above it's best to use only pull strokes. If you don't need to re-profile the edge you won't typically start with anything below 600grit. If you maintain your edges well, you will usually start at 2000grith, then move to 4000grit then 6000 then 8000. For bench chisels you probably only need to go to 4000 or 6000 before stopping, For carving chisels and fine detail chisels you want a very sharp smooth edge so some people will go 2k, 4k, 6k, 8k, 10k, then 12k so the chisel glides through the wood without force greatly reducing the chance of injury.

As for the stop block, it's more intended for drill pres, table saws, miter saws and router tables that do have a top mount T-Track. Like you I have an Incra miter sled and an Incra super fence on my table saw and router so would not be useful for me.

Good video. Sharpening takes some practice, and there is a saying that you don't learn the right way till you have lost a few pints of blood. Hopefully Jonathan's jig will make that saying a thing of the past.

I got mine a while back. Set it up today. A little getting (just a little) used to it. Sharpened a plane blade for a Stanley 5-1/4. Did a perfect job. I have only had the cheap jigs for sharpening. I saw zero sense in the expensive ones. The KM is a very fair price and performs better than any other sharpening jig.

I also got the crosscut sled stop block. Can’t wait to get that in use!

I bought the jig and recieved it about 5 days ago, I have sharpened 10 chisels with it. It does hold the tool better than anyother jig I have and is smooth but I needed to shoot a little WD 40 into the roller to eliminate a squeek and it rolled much better. I would say it was worth the $$. For a badly worn/sharpened chisel it takes me about an hour to bring it to a 1200 grit diamond plate and leather honing.

You probably need coarser grit to start

I got out of the habit of using hand tools some time ago, and then decided to take it up again.  I got the Veritas MKII and I was discouraged at how long it was taking to sharpen everything.  The problem was I had been hand sharpening at some weird angle. So I gave up on it again for a couple of years until I got a cbt grinding wheel.  Things went much better once I prepped everything on the grinder.  But it turns out I got one of the bad MKII and kept getting crooked results.  I just bought the KM, and it seems much better.

You could mount a length of T track to the top of your wood sled.

This chisel needs a grinder for starts. Also, when you come back to the jig, center the chisel. Otherwise you will take more material from one side.

If you want to see clearly how effective your sharpening is going, use a Sharpie to 'paint' the surface you think you want to contact. As you sharpen, the Sharpie ink will be removed where you are making contact.
The point of the fence is not only to hold the iron perpendicular, it's also to help you keep centered.

Thank you for sharing.

Honestly, with the roller the full length of the clamp it doesn't matter if the tool is in the center as long as you apply equal downward pressure on both ends of the jig What is more important is keeping the chisel tight to the angle guide and making sure to torque the thumb screws to an even pressure to hold the chisel flat against the jig.. The reason your tool wasn't being ground evenly was the old grinding angle was different. Once reground it will be very easy to keep the same angle using the same tool.  The Sharpie tip in another comment is only needed when trying to match an existing profile angle perfectly when honing. If regrinding, there is no need.

Love mine it’s given me the confidence to do all my own planes etc

So, what's the final sharing results??