Felder of Austria make some amazing sliding table saws, they are expensive but a lot of work has gone into them to ease the workflow, improve productivity and make them comfortable and easy to use. When those lottery numbers come up thats what I'm investing in.

Rob you should watch at some european tablesaws...They have huge sliding tables that make cutting sheet goods very easy (once you laid the sheet down over it, you can rip it by yourself)...Awesome for tenoning, no jigs or sled required, since the table runs parallel to the blade and the miter gauge is square to it also.

I had a 1935 Tannewitz Model J-250 table saw that had a flexible steel hose that went from the saw carriage to an outlet on the outside of the cast iron base for dust collection...so this was done many years ago.

Similar to the Unifence Rob, you can slide the rip fence back and use it for repetitive cross cuts without worrying about the the off cut wedging between the blade and fence causing a kickback. Had the biesemyer on my unisaw but got hold of a unifence, love it !

The fact that the fence run back and forth is usefull when you cutting some pieces that might be cougth between the fence and the blade

I have had my SawStop for 8 years ... best tool investment I have ever made. I check alignment every so often, but to tell the truth, the fence/miter slot/blade alignment was spot-on out of the crate and has never required any adjustment. I have never used the SawStop miter gauge ... I have an Incra that is a far better miter gauge with zero slop.

I told the SawStop rep that their miter gauge was worthless. Certainly not of the same quality as their saws. He said that they had determined that most SawStop users wanted to use aftermarket miter gauges so they wouldn't burden the cost of the saw with a more expensive gauge. . I have an Incra 1000HD on my SawStop and I love it. Anyone want a free SawStop miter gauge?

i trained on an old wadkin 1950's maybe even 40's sliding table saw.  it was a huge beast.  the mitre gauge was fixed to the table at one end with a pin that dropped into a hole and the outer end pivoted.  the gauge needed a crane to lift it off lol.  same with the rip fence.  yet saying all that its still the best saw i have ever used and would love to have it now. no safety features though.

I also started out using a Shopsmith that my father bought in 1956. I still have it but definitely don't use it as a table saw. I use it for a lathe and sanding. It has a decent but small jointer accessory.

Extending the fence off the table is 2 fold. 1 part is you get a longer referencing edge before starting your cut and if you mark it directly where its back side meets the frontof your blade you can set it and clear material the moment youve cut through without having to go across the whole radius of a spinning blade

I think Shopsmith were the first to use a serpentine belt on their machines.  Although a lightweight homeowner multi-function machine, it was pretty revolutionary using a serpentine belt back in the day.

The tip about the play in the mitre fence’s track is welcome. My jobsite bench saw, a Bosch GTS 10J, is great – apart from the sloppiness in its mitre fence. Pinging it with a centre punch, as Mr Cosman suggests, might make all the difference.

I just bought Wadking BRT 12”, build 1975. Thanks for the tips!

Thank you Rob for these great videos. Do you guys think you could do a series on restoring a jointer or other machine?

Famous words from Rob Cosman. "How much time are we at? Oh well these might be a little bit longer". -every video. Love watching!

We have 20" Wadkin bandsaw I have setup for resawing with the same fence. LOVE IT!!

Rob (and others),

In regards to the "micro-adjust" features and questions of accuracy, I would check out the Wixey WR700. It's an extra aluminum rail that you attach to the square tube on your fence, and a DRO attached to the fence body via strong magnet that rides along the rail.

The result is a digital caliper on your saw fence that can read in absolute and relative. This helps for making those slight adjustments, as well as being able to accurately set a measurement without relying on often-fallible eyesight, and be sure you are dead on the money. It's pretty easy to install and use, and adds the only thing I really find missing to my sawstop

Hi Rob, I worked in a shop set  up for maintenance of a college campus. It had a General Industrial tablesaw. I expect these saws of yours are the same. You mentioned two or three V belts. There was no slippage on that saw. I was always nervous when instructors came by to cut some materials. These people were not cabinet makers or craftsman. The other tools I was fine with them using but that tablesaw. It was so unforgiving to mistakes when sawing., that blade would not stop or even slow down for anything. All that energy was transferred into work piece. Myself I never seen the reason for so much torque. If anyone is thinking about buying a saw for the first time, these are not the saws to start with. A contractor saw is so much safer and will cut a lot of wood with a sharp blade. What do you think? Leave these saws for the professionals.

Rob, thank you for the informative videos. The way you teach, makes it so much clearer and easier to understand than any other videos I've seen. Even when Jake and you were talking about hand planes at the woodcraft in Orlando a few weeks ago. I knew nothing about them and with as little sleep as I had that day, I will never forget some of the things you spoke about. Thank you for supporting the troops Sir!

Thanks for doing these.