Have had mine a couple of months been saving for a new cab and have never really used a miter gauge as a job site saw I have never really had the need your review was more than helpful learning how to use and start crafting furniture

4:55 Realistic Mach 1's make a short cameo... bet that is a nice sounding shop stereo!

I have to say I appreciate how you actually cover your table saw top when doing work on it. I am not sure how many YouTubers I see work on their table saw tops without any covering on it and that includes gluing together their projects.

just got one and was looking for a video just like this. thanks the simple, detailed information and clearly shown examples.

Picked mine up last week.  I appreciate this setup vid.  Well done!

Thank you for this video! It was really helpful!

That screw is in the second hole for a reason. When the gauge is far back out of the slot you need the support up front. It doesn't do any good in the third hole if it is not engaged in the slot.

I just got a similar one, and there were adjustment screws in all 4 holes. I first unscrewed them completely and scratched the thread a little, so they went a little tighter in the thread, this is so that after adjustment they don't come out of adjustment so easily. Maybe not necessary, but then I'm on the safe side.

Here are my findings after testing three of these miter gauges.
This is a heavy miter gauge, and so it does not really balance well on a job site style saw. Firstly the ball bearing adjustment in the grove does not work well with aluminium table tops. The aluminium fence is very very heavy, so either get the shortest, or just get the bare bone and add your own fence. The stop block looks fancy, unfortunately the red pointer is hard to read and overall.  it's not smart design. There is a very slight slack in the angle settings, and so this is not for very high precision work, it's fine for construction projects, within 0,2 degree. I've tested three and this is what to expect. So someone suggested adding UHMW tape to the bottom of the fence, absolutely great idea, you can use any low friction tape, they are cheaper and work as well. So many job site saws, have a somewhat rough surface, so there is some friction, and that will pull your working piece when sawing at angles other then 90 degrees, you need to fasten it to the fence. And you can also lessen the friction by spraying the table top with PTFE or other DRY lubricant. These kinds of dry lube are useful for many other things in the woodworking workshop where oily lubes might attract dust, you can treat all kinds of materials, metals and plastics..

My final thoughts. Almost every single youtuber trashes the lousy miter gauges that come with most worksite saws. And so we all look around to upgrade to something better, hense we watch all the miter gauge videos, hoping to find a good solution at a good price. Maybe we are mostly wasting our money, maybe the crappy miter gauges that come with the saw, just needs a few tweaks, maybe a little low friction tape could fix the problem of wobbly miter gauges, and maybe a high end miter gauge just does not work well one these smaller worksite saws and their aluminium tabletops. In the workshop I love my various cross cut sleds, they are  more precise and so packed with additional features, they are safe and fun to work with, IF you make them lightweight compact. I'm not talking about the heavy duty 3/4" plywood versions, nobody like to work with those. On location I absolutely find that a modified crappy miter gauge and an angle finder works perfectly well, of cause most people would use a sliding miter saw, it's just the better tool for cross cutting. You may not agree, you may have different experiences and tips, this was my 5 cents. Happy New Year..

the rail and railguide is different heights so the playing card trick won't work there..

I've had this one for a few days now and just figured out what that red pointer is for.
It's used to set the distance between the carbide and the end of the miter gauge fence, and then set flat to the top of the fence and used to read the scale.
Now the stop block is accurate to the scale! Awesome!

You didn't say how to set the bar to use the meter scale on it

New to woodworking in last year Love the video breakdown it really helped me set mine up so thank you for that I intend on watching your other videos I have been thinking of buying an adjustable powertec box joint jig next would love to see you review that can’t find any reviews of it it’s quite expensive for what it does and is though

The quality control for that isn’t very good. The product itself seems good. Unlike yours mine came with all 4 adjustment screws. The problem I had is the machining of the guide. It didn’t fit in the slot of my saw. I contacted customer service, HaHa, and they said it would be too expensive to ship back. So they credited me $20. I then took it apart and sanded the guide. Now it fits perfectly.

I have had that gage for a few months and it has been great. I added a strip of self-adhesive UHMW tape to the bottom edge of the fence since it rests on the table.

I noticed you put the Vevor in from YOUR side... Ususally nothing is  in the way but I believe you'll find it easier to reach out and PULL it in from the back of  the saw.. the keeper disc on the guage bar then pulls in much easier ! simple but VERRY effective because you can just lay the bar in and PULL it toward you .

ANy chance on an update after using it for a while?

How do you adjust the 0 if it's not quite square?

When I slide the gauge on to the table it catch on the bottom so how do I adjust the gauge

Thanks for the vid I’ve just got my Vevor but I’ve had the one that extends don’t know if I’ll use it but it’s there if I do not as experienced like your self  but the years are racking up lol just subscribed to your channel I have one my self and I’m from the UK 🇬🇧, and I don’t edit my vids so many thanks