That is a bi-metalic spring. The heater is on the outside of the spring. Hook up 12 volts, to the choke, and wait for it to turn as far as it will. If it doesnt turn get a new one, Be sure the housing is grounded to complete the circuit. Then turn it until the choke plate is vertical (off). You must be sure the housing is hot to continue.  The screw you are concerned about is the FAST idle screw. It should not touch the cam when the choke is off. The large screw on the side is the idle air bypass screw.  Unscrew it to increase idle speed in to slow.If you let the fast isle screw touch the fast idle cam it won't run or idle correctly. After you get ti to idle, the small screw under the idle screw (the big one) controls the idle mixture. It does nothing to the carb above 1400 rpm. After you screw the small screw out until it idles the highest rpm, reset the idle screw to 750 rpm or so. Then screw the idle screw in until it runs rough then back out until smooth. The fast idle screw should not be touching anything. About 6 of 8 thousands of clearance. Make sure the choke pull-off works. Also, the stock air cleaner has a 6 inch tube inside to contain the fuel fog above the carb. Make a ube to raise the air filter that amount or the car will hesitate on acceleration.

The choke is not your problem my friend. Your choke appears to be operating normally. Your problem is the same as the one that I had recently, you have a vacuum leak. What happens when the carburetor is in the choke position is it limits the amount of air coming through the carburetor thus increasing the density of the fuel. This is compensating for the vacuum leak which is introducing too much air somewhere in your intake manifold. My suggestion is to take some starter fluid or even carb cleaner and spray around your manifold fittings to see if the engine RPM increases. If it does then that is where your vacuum leak is occurring.

There are 3 marks close together on the choke housing, the middle one is the standard setting (spring and autumn) the one to the anti-clockwise side of tge middle mark is the winter setting and the other is the summer setting, all dependent on the temperature / climate obviously of the country the car is based in.

Im thinking it's the choke needs to be adjusted. Comment below. Thank you for all the support.

The Butterfly Valve should be just about 5mm from fully closed when cold. Do Not close it to tension. Once the engine warms up it should open fully. (Least Restrictive) Your Air Cleaner Is NOT Stock, So You may not get the appropriate heat to your carburetor initially. Go back to a stock air cleaner for best results.

Thinking this my issue with no slow idle on my 1970 Beetle. Looking forward to seeing part 2

You are on the right path. I would turn it till the plate just touches not binding.   The fast idle plate is weighted so it moves once the choke is heated up.

I have a headache after watching this

Mysteries abound on these carbs. I ve bought three to try get my 62 running and always had somevissue. Fuel pressure, clogged lines from washers in stock fuel pumps, kinks in line under gas tank, choke not ideally set... and on it goes. I want duals but I can't make a single work😂😂. Starts, idles, sometimes dies not always, if it does die doesnt want to start. I feel my timing is on, valves adjusted, running pointless ignition with matching svda vacum distributor/coil, new wires aaaarrrgggghhhhhh

...and part 2...when?

i know this guy is way past not needing to know by now but for anybody else wondering cause you need to set your choke , it's 1/4 inch gap between the bi-value and  the inside of the cylinder, you don't want to close it completely.....

I had many trouble on setting the choke too, since I blocked it (the butterfly in fully opened position), the car just need a minute of attention by pumping on the gas pedal, then it idles perfectly, the car heats up fester, this gave me some major savings on the gas and time.  Also, by doing this you make sure your butterfly is open all the way, using the choke gave me like 3/4 of the travel from closed to fully opened. Get rid of the stinky smell of the rich air-fuel mixture.

cant hear the cranking sound it is a  pity .i would like to hear it.

Just get a restored one on the Samba.  Done

Turn the hex head jet just under the choke thermostat bout a 1/4 turn out.sometimes those get over tightened and won't let it idle

I would have thought that with Florida temperature the choke would virtually not be in in use .......I would be inclined to check the needle and seat inside the carb and also the float  level ......possible if the fuel pump is getting tired, at idle it may not be pumping sufficient fuel unless the engine is revving ......but I don't think the choke is the issue at all ....

Ahhh Gas....isn't it great! Ok....lets see....
Problems could be from dirty carb, wrongly adjusted carb to bad fuel, or not enough fuel. fouled spark plugs from the engine running too rich and/or too cold. So all that needs to be looked at.

The choke ''step'' is supposed to be slightly sloppy....and that looks ok to me.
Yes, The choke should be slightly closed...not all the way though... the engine does need to breath.
The choke is used...now not a lot of people understand this, so , here goes.....
Because when the engine is cold...remember that word cold. it needs more gas due to the fact that the gas is not vaporizing and it is sticking in liquid form to all the insides of the intake. YOUR ENGINE WILL ALWAYS BE COLD, because the heat riser tube....thats that tube thing under the carb attached intake that connects to the exhaust. Exhaust gas circulates through it and heats the intake helping to vaporize the fuel/air mixture. It has to be unblocked...you will consider yourself lucky if you can blow air from one side to the other...if you cant , it will need to be unblocked....good luck. unblocking it, I had to cut mine apart. Easier to buy one clean.
a plugged heat riser will not allow the engine to burn the fuel efficiently until the engine becomes soaked in heat from running. And will result in sooty or fouled spark plugs.
Remember, all adjustments on that carb are to be made when ALL SYSTEMS are present and are in working order.
or
Not....depending on how you want your car to operate

It's not supposed to touch.

I would think it should be adjusted to just pull the choke plate closed. No more. Because then, after the engine has started, the choke coil is energized and starts to move. Slowly allowing the choke plate to move to the open, warm engine position. And it doesn’t pull it open. That stepped weight on the other side is what actually allows it to open, slowly. I have a question for you. I have a 1200cc engine in my 71. It has a six v. Choke coil on the pict 28 carb. Is the twelve v. Coil on the newer carb the same size? Can I order a 12v. Coil and expect it to fit? Or should a put a resister in? 12v. To 6 v. I recently got this project car, and have been slowly working on it. Kinda disappointing to find out you have a 1200  and not  a 1600 engine.

What size Idle Jet are you using? I switched my buddies from a 55 to a 60 and it fixed the issue. I think it was the stupid fuel we have now. Just an extra thing to know.