My ls swap is running a 160, with a 3 core aluminum radiator,  on a 100* day, it runs 170ish... im  definitely pleased with it

I’m in Texas, and it’s been over 100f every day for the last 60 days.

I appreciate you a lot that you go into detail. I hate videos that don’t go into details and I can never understand so I appreciate it alot thanks so much!

Excellent video! My street/strip car likes to run about 180 degrees on a decent day, but if I get caught in traffic or driving in a car cruise, it starts climbing to 200 degrees and 210 degrees is my danger zone. Most of my friends are old school and told me to remove the t-stat and I did. That made it much worse. I thought I was going to have to re-think my whole cooling system. I decided to try the 180 degree t-stat (nothing to lose) and my gauge hasn’t gone over 185 since then, even on the hottest days. 👍

If you drop the thermostat you got to drop the fan switch too

This video was excellent and provided much more information than what the title suggests. Sounds like 180 degree is what most vehicles would run unless you have done necessary modifications for other temps

Great video man. My 62 chevy II runs a 160 and runs 160 all day in Any weather. I'm about to swap to a 180 cause of the Luke warm air I have during the winter here in Missouri.  Lol

Thanks. You got to love a guy who knows what he’s talking about.

This is a debate that's been going on for generations, back when I went to automotive tech school (40+ years ago) the instructor had all the students debate the very same thing amongst ourselves while he listened, when we were done, he taught us that the main function of thermostats in an internal combustion engine was not to help cool the engine but rather the reverse, to help the engine warm up during start ups, albeit, while there is a slight cooling advantage to having a thermostat installed, that's not the original intended function of the design, what determines what temp thermostat used (pre-emissions controlled) is determined by your climate, cold weather vehicles would use a 160 degree thermostat and warmer climate vehicles would use higher temp thermostats like a 180+ degree thermostat. Some students tried to debate with the instructor the virtues of the cooling benefits of higher temp thermostats, he explained that by the time the engine has fully warmed up, running at normal operating temps and gotten a few cycles of coolant flow, the thermostat is partially to fully opened due to temperature and coolant pressure from both heat expansion and from constant water pump circulation, even with a good radiator and air flow, coolant temps don't cool off enough to close the thermostat, as most decent radiators will only cool off the coolant between 10-15 degrees.

Mechanically saavy.... love the detail, learned much. Thank you.

The thermostat (OE part no. BL3Z8575B) in my 2016 Expedition has been changed out 3 times over the last 4k miles due to code P0128. Also changed the ECT. My temp still runs in the 171-174 range causing P0128 code. FYI the problem started after installing a new water pump, thermostat and radiator fan. Got any suggestions? Thx

Excellent description of the system and it's functions. I had a dirty old copper rad and no thermostat.

Iam glad because I grew up the oldest girl/only girl -poor with all brothers and  they was all truck drivers and all also  mechanics I grew up hearing a lot about this or that I would be great for working at a parts store,yet I had never worked on any vehicle not even change oil til my dad pasted away and  I was given his 1959 Ford with a 302 with a c4 trany so I had to learn how too,so I could finish it so I could drive it and I lost 2 brothers that helped a little before they died but I am having to fix everything on it then my oldest daughter gave me a 2006 Subaru Forester that needed a water pump and thermostat and iam to poor to pay  a stupidly high price f that lol so anyways thank you for your video I liked and subscribed to your channel thanks again I hope all your videos are great like this one keep up the good work and have a great day

Besides setting your minimum temp you need restriction to keep the water pressed up against the cylinder walls and head surface so it takes on the heat and is not cavitated away  we use the diesel wetter water to keep the water from foaming and it breaks the surface tension of the water to help keep it attached to the metal surface

In a factory configuration leave the factory t/s if it's a engine swap you need to consider other factors. If full power is the goal that's another thing. If your car is overheating something else is wrong. Dwell time in the radiator is one concederation but more important is the velocity and turblence along with block pressure.

I have an 1100hp procharged e85 ls7 and I decided to run a 174 thermostat in mine. It had the 197 stock thermostat and what people don't understand on thermostat it starts to open at 197 and is fully opened around 210.

This is spot on for the minimums. Also, what he explains about running no thermostat and it overheating is dead accurate. What he gets wrong is the thermostat acts as a flow restrictor even when it is wide open. That being said a 160 and 180 thermostat will not make any difference if your car is overheating at say 210° . That is a radiator, cooling fan, or airflow problem.

If you listening to this guy through the whole video you will understand ❤thank buddy I'm subscribed u 🎁 u r the main man thanks teacher 🎉

Very good points  I would just like to say (and I didn't watch the whole video so I apologize if you do say this later in the vid) The only job of the thermostat is to regulate the MINIMUM temperature of the engine. Meaning yes it allows coolant to flow and cool the engine, but only once that minimum temperature has been achieved. Anything else that happens above that temperature is outside of the control of a properly working thermostat.

I've had this sooooo many times with people throughout the years.  My final question = thermostat cost $9-$15 how much is a head gasket repair?