This was BY FAR the best nut explanation I have ever seen. Thank you.

If all frets are level, the nut slots should be level with the frets as well. Why? Because the nut is basically a zero fret. Once I realized this, my frustration began when hearing everyone else say any different. At last, I find someone who is saying what I've known for years. Now, I have no choice but to subscribe. THANK YOU!!!!!!
P.S. I'm a huge proponent of zero frets!!!!!

After watching this multiple times and filing a few nuts, I finally understand haha. Thanks for the wisdom!

Thank you Bryan...I'll probably understand one day 😂✌️

Thank you Bryan so much for this video this is no longer a mystery to me I only wanna do basic set up and save a few bucks and you are the best teacher on the Internet by far  
It’s amazing what a little adjustment at the nut will do for your action that was my hangup and could not understand why playability would never be the best thanks to you I no longer have this problem

Thank you!!!! This cleared everything up! Best explanation yet!

One of the best ideas I've seen to get the nut fret height... you take a #2 pencil , cut the eraser end off enough to span the first and second frets.. sharpen the pencil to a sharp point.  Then sand it all the way to the center of the lead... now you can set it across the first and second fret , and with the  point against the nut , draw a line on the side of the nut by moving the pencil from one end of the frets to the other...

Now all you do is file to the top of the line , and that gives you a little room to fine tune the slots. And have a line to not accidentally go to deep..
  Next, erase the line.. and clean it up with Naphtha when finished..

100% brother. Love the way you share.

That was so informative. Probably  the best informative  instructional videos I've watched on this topic😊

That was great, thanks for giving us the benefit of all your experience. I got so much from the whole thing. You really cleared up some things I hadnt really realised were grey areas for me.

Useful as always. Thanks Bryan

Finally - I've got, or had, Fenders, Squires, Epiphone, Gretch, among others.

Not one of them played right out of the box.

I've seen 'experts' explain why the nut 'should' be higher.

A US strat with a top E that 'fell off'! - and a luthier who defended it (took the money).

I thought I was the problem!

Great video thanks for sharing. Sorry, I have not been commenting. I've been sick & in the hospital. I like that capo. I have never seen a capo that thin. Thumbs up to this video. Stay well & safe everyone.

Excellent. Thank you.

Yes! For me always did pressing the 3rd and the string should “bell ring” when it’s touching the 1st fret ,  for the eyes its almost touching the fret

A masterclass. Thanks

Thanks, Bryan! You nailed it again. I've had so many arguments with other players (mostly in online chatrooms - of course!) about the proper height for the strings/string slots at the nut! Some people just can't get the concept of a "zero fret" - or that when you put the capo on at another fret, THAT becomes the NUT, and it's the same height as the frets in front of it!

Also, your closing comment on "good guitars" - like a D-35 or any other Martin Standard. I've played some guitars that sound great, but the nut set-up is awful, and so they're hard to play (literally you can't play clean cowboy chords 'cuz the strings are too high at the nut). Almost every guitar I've ever purchased, including Martins - have needed the nut action adjusted. The one exception was one of my Martin Custom Shop guitars - I don't believe I touched the nut on that one.

Thanks for the adjustment tips. I've run across a nut slot that is not compatible, that is, the B slot is lower than the adjacent string slots. While the string does not buzz, when barring at the 1st fret, the B string is not fretted as firmly as the others. I haven't really analyzed whether the other 5 strings re too high or I just need to fill and file the B slot. As we're on vacation, I cannot access the guitar right now to make that judgment.

Excellent! I'm gonna use this technique this weekend when I put a new nut on my 335. (Yes, it's me) 🙂

Psst - that guitar is missing a fret.

Gold dust!  I’ve always measured gap above the 1st fret when fretting between 2nd & 3rd fret and aim for a nat’s hair gap when cutting a nut.Your recommendation to measure above each fretted position and aim for a 002” increase as you approach nut makes a great deal of sense, I will be using this method from now on. You see a lot of setups online where a feeler gauge is placed under open string above 1st fret and nut slot is cut to a depth when open string buzzes against feeler gauge which I’ve alway thought is an inaccurate procedure if fretted gap above higher frets is not taken into consideration.
On the subject of equal gap spacing at nut between strings I also prefer this for better playability. I also use this method when notching tune-o-magic saddles or Archtop bridges.
Could I ask if is incorrect to notch a bone saddle on a Martin type of guitar with equal spacing but correct to let strings find their own position on saddle as they leave the string post. Thank you Bryan. Regards,


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