There’s something to be said about feedback. I can “feel” the edge better on these stones than I can on diamond. So for me, I make less mistakes and get a better edge, especially if I’m doing a progression.

“They say he made that cutting board himself… from a slightly larger cutting board..”

Kuromaku stones for filming a full length video and diamond stones when you need to film a short lol.

My specialty? Killing a knife edge like it never existed.

15v on my shaptons was horrendous.   Never again.  Cheap sharpal diamond plate for that one!

I’m going to sharpen all of my knives to this music…

that is a great look - you look like a scientist in a lab coat. I recommend that look for all of your sharpening or testing episodes. you look like a Mr. Wizard type with instant massive credability. You rock

The anime vibes are strong with this one :^)

I have a set of Kuromaku stones , but use diamond stones 90 percent of the time. They just cut faster for me. I like the fact that diamond stones come in more types also (like rods and paddle sharpeners ) for field use.

The green screen reminds me of the iron throne

Wow! That chonky cat is a true UNIT!

Rex 121 says, "Buy diamond stones".

How much surface bonding area needs to exist to avoid ripping a carbide out of the cutting edge with abrasion?
Assuming we are abrading with Aluminum Oxide or silicon carbide crystals, if I remember correctly.  
- The scientific & engineering data shared with me in reference to this is ( 8x bonding surface area - to - 1x abrasion surface area).
- On a 15° per side cutting edge bevel the ratio for a chromium carbide forming the apex radius is  ( 0.5x bonding surface area per side - to - 1x abrasion surface area).

- What's the trick to overcome this scientific/engineering data & actually abrade these carbides, hanging on by  sub micron bonding surfaces ?    Theoretically we need to overcome roughly a 16x deficit.

Its very possible to sharpen super steels on traditional water stones. However you have chosen very hard stones here with aluminum oxide abrasive which is not suited to the job. The abrasive in the stone will dull and not fall out, leaving the surface burnished, and therefore your edge burnished. If you try on very soft muddy stones with significantly harder silicone carbide abrasive you will be surprised at the success you'll have. The abrasives fall out before they dull, leaving the cutting ability of the stone in tact.

Soft coarse stones with SiC as the primary abrasive will absolutely rip through any steel. For example the sigma power select ii 240, king 200, or the options from gritomatic.

I spent hours sharping zdp189 on a arkansa hard stone and got a pretty good edge on it.

Thank you!

My usual answer as well.

Terrific video as usual

But the dreaded carbide tare out. The ceramics are not hard enough to sharpen the carbides; just the softer metal around them so it leaves you with carbides standing proud but easily break off. Leaving you with a not so sharp edge.

ts so peak im crine rn