Also get yourself some “3m - fast cut “ , will be a game changer for you

Going from "I've never detailed a car" to using a wool pad on a rotary is a bold movie Cotton.
Let's see how this plays out

I’m guessing that you were trying to polish the paint on a warm day? When polishing a car, especially a black one. Always do it inside a well lit garage, and NEVER in full outdoors. Also what was probably worth doing beforehand is giving the paint a clay bar before polishing to help remove all the surface grit off of the paint. The other thing is to always cover and mask any plastics, rubbers or the soft top to stop polishing compound from getting on as it is extremely hard to get off it. Also try using a foam polisher instead of a wool one until you have gotten some confidence. Also slow down your movements and do little segments on a panel at a time with about 5 passes per movement in that segment.

At 18 years old I applaud you and your " what's the worse that can happen" attitude.
Iam a 61 year old widowed great grandfather , and I remember being 18 with my 1979 lada estate😊

You haven’t yet fully ruined it….. you need to wet sand the entire Frunk, you need to take off just a bough clear to get past the damaged clear then get the rotary back out and buff back to the finish you require, it’s not over yet

You cut right through the clear coat with the microfiber and rotary combo. You need a DA polisher with a foam pad to try and take that damage out - might need a repaint if you can't get it fixed.

Once you finish your passes you must use rubbing alcohol and wipe the residue off or else the compound will sit in the scratches and are hard to get out.

Also, beim Polieren gibt es verschiedene Schleif und Polierpasten sowie verschiedene Schaumstoffpads und Lammfelle. Es gilt mit Rauh oder hart anzufangen und dann immer weicher werden. Zuerst härteren Pad mit Schleifpaste verwenden um die wesentlichen Lackschäden zu entfernen. Dann weicheren Pad um feinere Oberfläche zu bekommen. Am Ende mit Lammfell und Polierpaste auf Hochglanz bringen. Die Maschine bei mittlerer Drehzahl verwenden 2500 -4000upm. Mässig drücken. Der Lack soll warm werden von der Reibung aber nicht heiss. Also Geduld und Ausdauer ist alles. Youtoub hat auch viele Filme zum Thema.

I don’t know how hard the clear is on Porsches but think that rotary plus microfiber? is sketchy for starting out to polish.

Would’ve gone with a cheap DA polisher and a heavy cut foam pad. Think that would give you a safer approach and tell you if you really needed more cutting (microfiber/wool) or just more polishing practice.

Just looks like glue. I would have used a light thinner to remove it, then buff

Some of this I can't tell from the video; it's not sharp enough and well lit enough (even fairly bad finishes can be made to look good in video with lighting...). Some of this is using the wrong stuff, the wrong technique, and some of this is not your fault; it's just worn-out (heavily UV-damaged) paint.

1- The real paint defects: you're going to need to do some color sanding to get them out. I'd suggest doing it by hand: start with 1000, then 2000, 3000, then polish. Get a bucket of water, put a little soap in it, and throw the piece of paper in in there for a few minutes to soften the backing up and then wrap it around a sanding sponge (foam block) and have at it. This will work for things that are in the clear but no through it.
2- it doesn't really look like you have any, or enough compound on the pad for the cutting and polishing work. For an OK job get a good cutting compound and then a good wax. For a good job get a polishing compound to go in between.
3- I can't really tell what the "gone white" really is. If its white as soon as its dry and you can sort of see it when it's wet it's damaged clear, there's nothing you're going to do to fix it but to sand it off and repaint. If it's white the next day could it be that you didn't clean whatever cutting compund/polish off? Did you try hitting it with some wax? A lot of these things have wetting agents in them, like glycerine so they look clear and shiny while you're using them but after they dry a day or 2, they evaporate and get powdery/chalky. They need to be cleaned off after you're done (IPA, some glass cleaner, wash the car, wax, detailing spray...).
4- Some of this is just damaged clearcoat, like on the trunk lid, the area that looks pock marked/cratered that is clearcoat that has been UV damaged and is coming off, when you stuck tape to it you took more off. Nothing you do outside of sanding it out and re-painting it is going to fix it. Even sanding it so it all looks blended together and then re-clearling is going to fix it, when you clear it it will look like mottled, you'll never blend the remaining clear with the areas that are missing clear.

Good vid 👍

STOP !!! the whole car needs to be repainted !!!