Key moments:
0:07 Check frame numbers
0:57 Steering bearing condition and preload
1:27 How to look for play in steering bearings and fork stanchions
1:43 Check for front wheel bearing and trueness issues
1:58 Fork legs: where to look for leaks
2:24 This might indicate the bike fell at some point, look closely
2:55 Handlebars can also indicate the bike fell
3:07 Brake inspection and worthy upgrades
3:42 Tyre and wheel balancing inspection
4:13 Inspecting the final drive chain
4:45 A first look at the engine
5:46 Aftrmarket oil pressure gauge
6:09 Exhaust down-pipes and slip-on cartridges
6:47 Rear damper inspection
7:07 Petrol tank, petcocks and fuel lines.
7:57 Identifying a repro vs original petrol tank
8:40 What should you find under the seat?
9:43 Inspecting the frame
10:28 Handlebar switch gear
10:56 Showroom floor stickers (rare)
12:22 Checking brake lights (front switch broken, fix coming in another video)
12:28 Engine start, idle, and listen for odd noises
13:43 Engine off ASMR

Thanks so much for a superb presentation. Finally a YouTuber who can actually string a sentence together with detail and articulation. Loved this vid, and as a prospective T140 buyer (hopefully very soon!) I found it truly useful.

Bought a matching number t140v bike (Dec 1977) for little money. In 2019, 4K on original ODO. still got both Smiths working. Engine wasn't seized, hadn't been registered since 1981. It became my COVID project during lockdown. I stripped the bike to check for cracks/welds and it all looked solid so I repainted it. I was able to keep original right hand cluster, but the left hand cluster was held together with deck screws. It was toast.  I did have to replace the steering bearings (badly notched) rebuilt the swingarm, clutch, forks, carbs, brake masters and slaves, new harness, new wheel bearings. The Speedo gear crapped off its welsh washer at some point and I did the nickel dime trick. That's held up for 9k so I think it's good. Rode it for a while and since it was running pretty well, went .20 over on bore and new rings, and got the head conditioned, new valves and guides. I did not crack the case open. Original coils were in spec, but I did finally replace. I just replaced original rectifier as it blew a diode, the connector loosened up and probably arced. but it didn't toast my stator... Put on a podtronics rectifier mounted under battery tray. Still running same points, positive earth. I put Dunlop K70 gold seals on as that was what I used in 80s. The tank was nice, but when it started to seep on a seam, I tried patching, then sealing (POR15?) and it just started leaking around the center tube. I replaced it with an aftermarket (Indian made) which only required alot of work, retapping all threads and some file work on gas cap and petcock seats. It looked like they store their parts in a muddy drainage ditch or it sat outside for a year. It's chrome with black decal on it, finish good enough for me. I miss the original tank, but after repainting the original tank twice in 4 months... I sealed the new tank with caswells. That stuff is cool.. it came with oversized 1 3/4 pipes, so I bought 2 bsa goldstar mufflers and ran them until I holed both of those pipes. Now I got the stock push in pipes with balance pipe. Sounds better a little quieter, more mid throttle, and made bike run a bit richer. Not so much I needed to change jets, just leaned the air screw a little and she is running well. I like the torque when you just crack the throttle. Great bike. Only time it let me down was the flat tire. It's been fun. Keeps me out of the bar... I did decide to get a second bike just recently and test rode some of the modern retros, the Enfield 650 got me thinking, but after sitting on it was a hard pass. Didn't bother riding it. I did ride the MG V7 and Kawasaki w800. Two cylinders, air cooled. Comparing the ride, I am VERY pleased with the ol Triumph. People with too much money shit on the OIF, but I would rather buy a good used car than spend 20k on a bike.  I did pick up a great deal on a 2020 Kawasaki with only 1,200 on the clock, from original owner. It is closest thing I felt to the 70s ride. Familiar. Plus. A hell of a lot of chrome. Pretty. One dealer did have a really sweet 2000s MG California, but that is just too much bike for me. Maybe someday, one of their leaner old bikes, or a classic Bmw. Another home rebuild. Maybe... would probably need bigger garage and a new wife. I like this one so... Maybe no more bikes for me...

Superb presentation …well done

I just bought a t140 boniville  750cc  triumph 77 model  wid  mukuni  carboretas each side also taper turbo  exhaust  she just want go flys

Thank you for that video

I own 73 Trident with the same front end as your T140. Broken original front wheel braces aren't a sign of a fall but factory mistake. They were cast and in the Triumph literature their nut torque were stated much bigger than necessary and most of them were broken during torquing them down. Reproductions are made from solid aluminum and much stronger than originals. I read the rest of the comments with their horror stories about factory problems and and bike's problems. My opinion is these bikes when put together properly and used regularly are very solid and reliable mounts. Not on the level of old Japanese bikes but pretty close. Electric gremlins everybody is scared off are mainly effect of no maintenance of electric loom and devices by bike's owners.

Hi there, how have you been, kinda lost track of you on YouTube. Allthough im a well seasoned classic triumph owner by now, i really like your productions. Knowledge regarding these bikes is rapidly disappearing. Thanks for your efforts.
Cheers Mike

I have a 1969 Daytona which I have meticulously rebuilt, it has now covered 5000 miles, and not a drop of oil leaking anywhere, which proves you can make a Triumph oil tight.

Nice vid mate, some good tips

Good video

Lost track of time Welcome back, I am not mechanically inclined but would love to see alternate setup like Electrex World ignition kits to eliminate battery or Standard Lucas ignition timing for firing order (which always haunt me). Thanks

I just bought a '78 bonnie last year. Two months later, the crank shaft snapped!
Got it rebuilt over the winter😃

These oil in frame bikes can have the oil pot or end of oil carrying frame tube rusted through, or cracked,likewise the centerstand mounts need inspection

Buyers... "Modified" Frame and Engine numbers are common! I have a Gallery of Engine Numbers on my site that covers the post war Triumphs together with additional information.
Research the specification of the differing models and years before you buy. Parts availability is good, you will need AF tools. Oil Tightness can be acheived with carefully assembly.

If that's a 1977 Bonneville, you'll need patience and money.  And a Sucker to buy it, when you run out of both:  The year was 1977; my Triumph Dealer after multiple "fixes"  called in a man that trained at Triumph in England. Clint, owner of Clint's Cycles in Boulder, CO said, "If I knew it was going to be this kind of bike, I wouldn't have sold it to you."  My brand new 1977, T140 Bonneville.  His 'man' trained in England, finished with my bike - I rode it straight home.  Where I tarped it for the Winter.  Its first ride in Spring was to a multi-brand dealer, where it (thankfully) brought good trade-in value.  I was relieved !!  My '77 was a beautiful bike, but everything between its leaky fork seals and its muffler falling off on I-80, had its own serious problems.  There was no 'trusting' this bike.  My 1971 T140 Bonneville; dependable like a hammer !

I’ve owned 3 T-140’s.  I even bought a ‘79 T-140D brand fucking new from an actual triumph dealer.  I also vintage raced both a T-140 and a T-120 and owned and rode them on the road, too.  Suffice to say I’ve had a bunch of these engines and gear boxes apart.  I broke a few connecting rods racing, but that’s another story.  Anyway, here’s my take on any T-140: (1) they simply vibrate too much.  It’s nasty.  Like break stuff and pulverize light bulbs nasty (2) the short rod engine inhales pistons.  On my brand new T-140D I meticulously maintained it.  It lived in a garage.  I never abused it.  Before it got to 20k miles it was using quite a bit of oil and vibration had rattled and cracked many things.  When I pulled the top end, I was amazed at the wear I saw.  The pistons were heavily worn on the thrust side of the skirt.  Interestingly, the bores weren’t excessively worn.  The bike still ran ok when I took it apart.

That said, I owned those bikes (T-120 and T-140) in my 20’s and loved them dearly.  But Somewhere in the late 80’s I got my hands on a Moto Guzzi 850 Lemans, and over night this old Brit bikes got relegated to the basement where they stayed for about 20 years when I sold them all.  Fwiw, I still own a moto Guzzi lemans 1000 I bought new in ‘91.  If I could have some of the Brit stuff back, it’d be the T-120’s and my ‘69 Commando, NOT the T-140’s.

I had a t140v back in the 1970s from new, beautiful machine, electrics not so good.

I would love another, but at 70, maybe not. From australia.

the 750 twin and triple killed the early Triumph with there short conrod;s and pre historic design . been there done that 650's are twice the bike and much more torquey . still own 2 and a Commando

had 2 new ones in the 70,s...not great bikes,vibrated,brakes did not work in wet.silencers rotted within one year.cost around £1000.