I graduate Ryerson University in 1985 with a degree in Applied Photography.  Back then we were not allowed to use plastic reels..  You had to use metal reels and tanks.  The plastic reels caused issues during the agitation process.  They would interfere with the smooth agitation of the chemicals around the sprocket holes and edges causing uneven development.  Also never ever squeegee the water off your film, you might scratch it.  If you used the right amount of photo flow the film should drip dry nicely. Your agitation technique is very good, just like we were taught.

I literally just developed my first roll using this video as a guide, they actually appeared so now I need to scan

I just wanted to say thank you so much!!

Nice video!  A lot of info and thanks for the links!  I'm just a hobbyist and was using the ilford developer but someone recommended Rodinal.  So here I am researching.  I was confused about the stop bath but then doing more research see that it is optional as long as you rinse it well between dev and fixing.

I just subscribed and am looking forward to watching more of your videos.

what is your favorite developer and film? 😃

thanks for the video very useful informations

Very good

Yooo, that was exactly what is my go to. Fomapan and Rodinal. I use Adox rapid fixer. Just my tank is some weird eastern bloc tank I bought for a dollar at my local shop. It has a strip of plastic on the spooo instead of those self loading things

24:22 Ahhaa, before development, I learned to wash/dilute the film base paint in the tank with water, half a minute is OK. So, you don't bother with that step. Clear, thank you. 24:58 you don't use a development stoppel (Fomacitro, for example) before applying fixer.

I finally got around to developing a roll with my Rodinal using your directions (I've always used the starter kits before).  Biggest problem is I live in Texas and it's 28 in my office and the coolest my water gets is 26.  It's hot.  Even the cold water is hot lol.  So I prepped a few bottles of RO/DI water and put them in the fridge.  Mixing was about 300ml of room temp and 200ml of fridge water to get it right around 20c.  Hardest part was having the rinse water prepped for several rinses.  But even that wasn't too hard.  Best part is I have negative images which is more than I expected lol.  

I know you can develop for less time using warmer water, but 28 is way too warm.  I think that's why my images were more grainy using the Ilford starter kit.  They just said room temp and mine is just too warm.  Maybe I should save my undeveloped film for the winter when it's closer to 20c XD.

Somewhat related question.  I have a Fujifilm HR disk that needs to be developed but I need to develop it in B&W because it's way expired and was told C-41 would guarantee failure.  
I see that Fujifilm HR-T30 ISO 400 sheet called for 37 minutes at 1+100.  This is ISO 200 disk.  How long should I develop it?
I know this is all guess work, but I'd love to see how this disk camera I repaired and the film I used did.

1+25 means 1 part developer per 25 parts water.  So for 700ml water you divide by 25, not 26, to get 28ml developer which will result in a total of 728ml at a 1:25 ratio.  But otherwise a good video.

All good until you gave the film the " Two Fingers " I use the Chamois Leather method, zero marks on the negatives.

were you in Lord of the Rings?

Do you check the temp on your fixer, how do you control the temp if its pre mixed?

the amount of wasted water📈📈📈

15 min, and he is keep on blabbing, wtf is this video l;ol