Iβve been putting bus transmissions in buggies for over 25 years and learn several secrets When installing with aftermarket trailing arms 3 x 3 etc. You must push the transmission back in order to keep the transmission drive flanges parallel with the stub axles to avoid CV joint binding no clearanceing if of CVs can relieve that problem without relocation Add 3β to the front mount by boxing it out with a Second mounting plate and add 3β to The ends of the engine horns and I suggest using your upper bell housing bosses as a mounting point to frame structure and possibly mid transmission mount to engine horn
Awesome π coming out sweet π€π½ Recommend a cross tube with fabricated tabs to the top 2 holes of that bell housing it will make it much stronger Little bit of blue locktite on the trans linkage bolt so it doesnβt back off βπ½
I have full hydraulic disc brakes, front rear on my buggy, so I do not use the emergency brake handles so I notched them off, smooth with a tunnel and mounted a EMPI 16-2106 well then doom buggy shifter linkage. The kit comes with almost everything you need and it gets rid of all the extra play very tight and easy to shift.
It looks like that shift linkage adapter arm is made from aluminum. If you drill another hole below the one that's there it should reduce the throw of the shift pattern. You should be able to do it with a hand drill, but a drill press would work better. Dan S.
I like that mounting kit, but as someone else said, some added bolts into the bell housing would be a good idea. The strap is good, but side plates and bolts would be better. My real question is I'm guessing you're running at least 3x3 trailing arms. "IF" 3x3, which is what I have on my rail, did you use the slots in the mounting plate to make equal length axles, or leave the input shaft centered and ended up with one axle assembly slightly longer than the other? Also, what CV axles did you use, the 002? Nice work! Thanks for the video.
nice. I've always wondered about this. Did you have the modify the forks in anyway to keep CV joints from binding? i'm comfortable with cutting open the firewall, but not so much in modifying the forks.
Looks like your axles may be swept back at too steep an angle for most CV's to function properly. You may need to move the trans back a bit. Read up on the subject and geometric requirements. It's not super simple and if you get it wrong you have to redo everything from the trans back. You don't want that, that will make a grown man cry.. Also , find a way to direct couple that shift linkage. What you have there is just wrong. Good luck!!
I'll be building an Acme Warrior rail. Was thinking about getting a bus transmission insfead of getting the CV sxle style Bug transmission, because I do not want to use the swing arm style one I curently have. Anyway, which axles are you going to run, the Type 2 bus or the Type 4?