I think you'll find the better light was because the un-machined perspex rod had a polished surface. When you machined it down to 10mm, you lost all the internal surface reflection, so only axial light passed through. The 10mm would have worked better if you had polished it, although diameter control would have been difficult. Also, the more rod sticks out of the top of the holder, the more light is collected and passed down to the target.
I remember one of these when I was doing fine limit work at a college when I was studying production engineering. With one you could drill a hole to within one ten thousandth of an inch. The device we used was made one of the instrument makers of the day.
The o-ring can come off pretty easily with just a straight sided cylinder to hold it. If you tapered the recess inwards, the O-ring will actually seat into the taper and be less likely to come off easily. Or you could machine a o-ring groove in the reduced end to capture the -o-ring but leave enough protruding to give you the no-slip surface you desired
Absolute quality work mate I really enjoyed the way you made it look easy I’m a beginner in machining I’ve made a few tools but I’m gonna give this one ago if you don’t mind thanks for sharing you work god bless P.s what was the optic material you used thanks
Hi, Alan, I see you are using a good old Set-Tru chuck, the same model as I have. Have you ever done a video showing the use of it? I have read so much mis-information about using one, and I am sure, like me , you know how to use it properly. So many people believe you need to loosen and tighten screws in the back plate, and on my own they are not even accessible!
Centre finder part 2
enots engineering
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We continue making the body and lens then make some changes to get a better view of the centre
Also, the more rod sticks out of the top of the holder, the more light is collected and passed down to the target.