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Adam, if I heard you correctly that switch is rated for 110 volts? DUDE! You need to wire that in as the main switch for your shop lights in the front of the cave. Imagine hitting the EMP on the way home every night... and the lights go out!

"Everything was in whole numbers. 1/2 inch, 5/8, 3/8, that kind of thing." - Adam Savage 2022

The only change I would do to this, though it's not completely accurate to the movie, would be to get an old camera flash capacitor and wire that in to charge when the cover opened. That steady build up sound as it charges would produce such a perfect complimentary sound effect.

"I'm not that crazy" YOU KNOW HE'S STILL LOOKING FOR THE CORRECT KNOBS.

"I'm gonna weather the crap outta this!" should be a new t-shirt design.

I like how the imperial units are so internalized that he calls "5/8" a whole number :D .

Shout out to The Editor; the "oof" on the garbage can miss was noticed & appreciated.  Ask Adam for a raise-

...or maybe a cafe mocha on the house.

Hearing Adam actually say "*bandsaw noises*" totally made my day.

I am four minutes into this video, and if it doesn't end with Adam 'activating' the EMP and knocking out the camera you've missed an opportunity.

Still watch the matrix few times a year, perfection..
.

I don't know if there's anything better than hearing Adam laugh when he's got something right. :D

The little "3 counter" @42:40 is a "BCD Pushwheel Switch" available at a lot electronics suppliers in different sizes and button styles

Next time you need specific knobs, search for replacements for recording consoles or guitar pedals. There are many different styles but those are fairly common in that world.

That turned out so cool!

the knob you were looking for and had to make, it looks a lot like the tip of the knob from an air pressure regulator.

Hi Adam, printer technician here (for a number of brands). Outright heat isn't the primary culprit here - time in the heat is.

Changing the paper type settings has more of an effect than people think. Thick 2 / Glossy not only adjusts the heat, it also slows the paper feed speed down. This means that there is more time for the sheet you're printing on (and thus the toner) to come up to fusing temp. Flash-fusing can be useful, but relying on that is not ideal (think low-n-slow vs searing).

For the best results, you'd be best to look at a printer that has better paper type options. Brother often has good options for this, as do Ricoh/Lanier/Gestetner. Oki aren't bad, but sometimes their colour matching isn't the best.
If you're just after a printer, I'd suggest something like a Ricoh SPC352 or a P C600. Both support up to 220gsm stock, have decent warm up times, and print at 1200x1200 dpi (so nice and crisp images). For Brother, I'd go with something like the HL-L3210CW. I don't get many of the HL series machines back in for repairs - we sell them, then often don't see them for ages. They're bloody reliable.

The parts they leave out of the movie... "Hold on guys, we have to wait on Adam to make our button!"
😂

I feel like activating the EMP knob should kill the light in the switch, since, you know, EMP.

THIS is the sort of One Day Build I love the most. Really niche, nerdy, unapologetically enthusiastic <3 Hell yeah. Never stop being your glorious self, Adam

Does your printer driver have an option for printing on "thick" paper?
Most laser printers I've met has that option, and it slows down the fusing process and raises the heat a little to make sure the paper and toner is adequately heated.