I have been shooting on film at night a lot and I have a lot of tips/knowledge I can fill in.
1: I never meter for the shadows at night - because the "shadows" at night are simply black. There could be some skyglow etc, but usually you don't actually want to capture it and having black areas of your images are what tells the viewer the context of it being at night. - instead I meter for middle grey, choosing an area of the image that I want correctly exposed. Usually every shot has an area that you want the viewer to "read" and that contains texture.

2: Night shots in general are very high contrast and it is expected that you will end up losing details in the highlights. What I mean by this is that if you are taking photos of lit signs etc, you pretty much have to choose between exposing in a way to being able to read the sign on the photo, or being able to see the things around it well. The extent of this depends on the contrast and lighting of the scene but expect any scenes where there is only one source of light to fall into this effect. The difference between the sign and the area lit by it is just too great of a dynamic to capture, even if you can see it well.

3: Use a tripod. I use a tripod for around 95% of my night shots. Even high Iso films like Portra 800 or Cinestill 800 struggle to capture most scenes well just because there is realistically so little light. You have to shoot wide open at like 1/30 - 1/60 at the best of times. Just remember to have your camera well secured so that it really dosent move while taking the shot. A mm move of your camera over the course of your exposure will blur it. In general tripods allow you to do a few things. Stop down to get sharper images, capture darker scenes in general, capture motion and light trails of moving objects and also importantly; use lower iso films.

4: Night photography can be done on all films - if you have a tripod. The main thing with different films is their colour renditioning and reciprocity failure. Since most artificial light has a lower CRI (colour rendering index) than daylight, it usually causes colour casts and spikes of different colours, mainly greens. Thats why a lot of indoor and night shots look muddy and green. Cheaper films have a bigger tendency to do this so thats why I prefer Kodak Portra over lets say Kodak Gold. Cinestill 800T shifts the entire spectrum towards the blues, so greens end up being cooler and more pleasing, hence why it is used that much. Also regarding Cinestill and the 2 stop difference - as mentioned in other comments this maybe only applies if you wish to filter yellow light with blue filter for daylight films, I haven’t really noticed that much of a difference between the Portra 800 or Cinestill 800 sensitivity to yellow light sources.

5: Be careful of lens flare, especially on retro lenses. Keep any bright sources of light well outside of your composition (unless you want them on the photo ofc), as they will bleed heavily and light streak your shots. If you ever get “ghosts” coming in from the sides, thats probably because there was a streetlight or something just outside your frame which flared in the lens. I have been surprised at how hard it is to nail this because you generally cannot see the flare when you look through the viewfinder, or only very faintly. I do use 1970s lenses though.

Hope this ends up changing the game for someone. Feel free to ask about anything, there's definitely more I could develop (no pun intended) further.

I honestly like the photos that are "mistakes" just as much as the corrected ones. Both are super cool.

my quick and dirty trick with a built in light meter is to just aim the camera at the darker area and set the shutter speed, then frame my shot and take the photo.

Your "awful" photos at the very beginning are fantastic

2 stops of ISO adjustment for shooting under tungsten light? That would only be true if you are using a blue filter on the lens to compensate for the color shift. If you're planning on adjusting the color balance in post you really don't need to compensate like that at all.

This is a great video but I do have one correction at 2:36. This is partially true. Adjusting for 2 stops is because most data sheets recommend using an 80A or 80B filter which takes away 2 stops of light hence the need to adjust the ISO by 2 stops. If you don't use the filter then you don't need to change the ISO.

Back in the 90's in Austria where I studied, i just took a kind of illogical choice, took an iso 25 film and grab my camera with cable shutter and tripod, did a lot of bulb photos at night scene there. I still have the film and printed them at 20cm x 25 cm... they were sharp

I’m slowly getting back into photography and was so curious on how to navigate bar/night club lighting. Film is so underrated so this was definitely helpful

Very nice tips! I had already seen some of these tips, but the Reciprocity Failure calculation was completely new for me. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge :D

I love that my Olympus OM2 SP has a spot meter built into the meter. Very helpful.
Great tips man!

Thanks for a well made and informative video, Darren 🙏🏼

I did learn a lot. Thank you

Loved the tips an Vancouver's photos. Great video.

So helpful, earned a sub

Thank you, very informative

Thank you )))  Nice video )))

GREAT VIDEO! SUBBED!!🤘🏾🤘🏾

3:39 I love this little market by english bay. One of my personal fav places to shoot at always, for some reason.

Ehhh Vancouver, nice!

Thanks for this. I enjoyed many of your images that you shared in this nicely done video.