I wish more of my teachers back in skool were as enthusiastic about their subject, I might have paid more attention! Thanks Shannon

Greetings from Canada. Sir you're absolutely beast! I am going to sign up for online class before the end of this month

Great method! I am going to have to play with that.

The "traditional sawbench" became a thing a number of years ago, probably as a result of people looking at some old plates, and woodworking writers needing something to write about.  But it's not actually very useful, for all the reasons you stated.  For narrow boards, your workbench is better.  For wide boards, you need to work off the side.  And for long boards, (or almost any boards, really), you're only at the right angle for sawing for a very short portion of he cut, and you need to find a way to hold the board up as you move it so that you're sawing in the "sweet spot".

What you re-discovered was the idea of sawing between two sawhorses!  When they're made the right height for hand sawing (most commercial ones are way too high for hand sawing), they're great for both crosscutting and ripping.  I've pretty much given up my sawbench in favor of two knee-height Japanese-style sawhorses, after discovering that the sawbench was actually not such a good idea after all.  The horses also have the virtue of being collapsible, to save space in a small shop.  The sawbench is still nice to sit on while thinking about what to do next, though... :)

Awesome!  I like your teachings on body mechanics.  I must have absorbed some of it somewhere from you because I built 2 saw benches for the reason you are describing.  One is a split top, the other is built like a tiny little roubo complete with a couple of hold fast holes.  Because of a bad knee, I can't hold the wood by putting it on top of the piece and bearing weight on it.  This is where the hold fasts work for me.  I use both benches together so often it amazes me.  I have to admit, there are a couple of scars in them from the circular saw too.  Yup...I use them all the time for lots of purposes.  Even as a stand for finishing at times and to stand on to get things from higher places.  The most useful build I ever did for the shop.

Excellent!!! Thanks!

I could cut square and true too if I was left handed... haha keep up the good work

I want a water wheel to do the donkey work sometimes.  Beautiful saw.

Awesome stuff here, Thank you Shannon!
Is that a Silver No. 1 hanging on your wall there?  I have one, can't wait to set it up.

I like your bent - I always tend to make my sawbenches in pairs, so I've never actually considered how one could be used as a bench height extension as well.

Building both this weekend.  Great lesson thanks.

Shannon
as you mentioned, there is no bad way to cut a board, unless it's uncomfortable, awkward and it's crooked...the additional saw horse is definitely an improvement, so, thanks for your comment and I'll try the "new" way.
Best.

Did anyone else have to sit through an ironic Festool ad?

My dad used to tell me... boy quit trying to be a “man” and prop the other end of that board up so I do have to buy another one “. LOL Guess my daddy was pretty smart for an old man. He taught me a lot though. Some things he told me how to do them right but he couldn’t explain why.

Great information, thanks for posting your video!  But, I would love to hear about the saw you used!  Lovely.

I'm not sure why you wouldn't simply take more advantage of the slot in your bench, allowing the saw the saw to move along the path of the rip rather than move the stock forward, and then, if necessary, flipping the work end-for-end and starting from the other edge when the action became a problem?  Thanks for your videos, by the way.  

this sawing style might be why so many traditional sawbenches have angled legs and no center slot.

Nice lesson in body mechanics! I know it isn't practical in your shop (with your height), but it looks like your saw bench is the right height to stand on for good position to rip a board clamped along the side of your main workbench.

Why not try ripping halfway down the board and then flip it end for end to finish it up?

Hey, Shannon, I appreciate your lessons on cutting. I've got a rather large challenge: I've got some 9-11" wide 5/4 sapele that I want to resaw for the a king sized headboard and footboard l, so we are talking about re-sawing 70+ inches Into approximately 1/2" or 3/8" planks. Any ideas (outside of a pit saw :) for that? Around 48" is the longest I ever see people rip or resaw by hand?  
Also, in this case, should I plane one face flat before sawing? Some days, I wish I had a 40" band saw. :) Unfortunately, the only mill I have found requires you to buy the woods to be milled from them.