I'm brand new to machining. I just picked up a Feeler FTL 168. i wanted to start threading gun barrels. at this point I'm very overwhelmed. I'm gonna have to check out more of your videos to see if you have any barrel Threading advice.
I've run ages HLV-H's over the past 43 years working as a Toolmaker/R & D machinist. I've used dozens and dozens of different lathes and these are the very best I've ever used, nothing can touch them, they are literally a joy to use. You're a lucky man with that one 👍. It's funny, The Bridgeport first came out in the same year, 1938, and I've run dozens of them too and love them.
Hardinge is still in business and still makes these. They are crazy expensive today. They had also bought Bridgeport some years ago and continue to make those. I don’t recall the specs for this older model, but the newer ones along with the various copies is concentric to around a 0.0001”., or better. Copies from better companies, made in Taiwan, cost around $35,000. The Hardinge made ones are twice as expensive, or more. A lot of money for a small second operation lathe.
James, you mentioned having a DRO on your machine but can’t see it in the video!? The Hardinge is good but I found the tailstock lets it down a bit. Doesn’t seem to locate as well as other lathes with prismatic guideways.
I've owned an HLV-B for maybe 20 years. What also makes it stand out is the fact that the power feeds are DC motor driven, continuously variable and crazy smooth. These lathes are built to last. the bearings are probably 3X the size and quality of an import 11" swing machine.
That was a blast from the past, I used to use a HLV for about 20 years back in the 1990,s - 2013 super solid machine, I liked the motors for feeding the slides, potentiometer adjustment big knob near the tailstock, I also liked pulling both leavers up at the same time perfect 45deg chamfer under power. Having the stops for threading was very useful for internal threads, my one had in imperial gearbox and the speed adjuster was on top of the headstock. Well done best wishes Jim
I was set on a Bantam as an upgrade for my 90's Taiwanese Warco 9x20...now I want a Hardinge 😖😆.
Not sure I could fit an HLV-H (or KL-1 as some of the lathes that were manufactured in the UK were badged as), they're a bit on the deep side, but I reckon I could fit an HLV in.
Eh, maybe I'll find a cheap one on ebay.🤷😄
Oh and good call re Tony's site; he's a of a scoundrel as far as the prices of the photocopied manuals/documentation goes😂, but I think we can forgive him that, for all the work he does to keep all that precious information accessible for free.😉
That's nice thread cutting! If I need to get so close to a shoulder I thread it in reverse (from the back to the front with a left hand threading tool upside down) or turn the spindle by hand. But this comfort! Very nice lathe! Thank you for sharing! Best, Job
I’m a model engineer and I have a UK made Hardinge HLV pretty much identical to yours. It’s an absolutely fabulous lathe. Like you I tend to use collets mostly. Really solid machine. Love it. 👍
Checkout the dovetails on the tailstock of the Hardinge. Also has an adjustable electric powerfeed. I last used one in the electrical dept. at the University of Liverpool, it had been installed new in 1966 and was still turning (no pun intended) out quality work.
Your lathe seems extremely robust and solid, although I have never heard of Hardinge.. I once trained as a metal Turner. The machines were, I believe Colchester and Boxford. Ward may have been another make I- at the time, also worked as a work inspector
As a machine tool fitter for Marconi Space snd Defence in the 80s i was lucky to be given on old one from the shop floor when i was about 20. Sold it for £100😮 opps
I don’t own a Hardinge but I do have a machine that takes 5C collets with a closer and I prefer to use them over a chuck as much as I can. They tend to be more accurate and much safer since there aren’t chuck jaws whirling around to catch on the fleshy bits.